INTRODUCTION
This e-book presents a lot of interesting projects for Model Railways.
Talking Electronics has produced two books for Model Railway enthusiasts (book-2 is now out of print).
The two books are:
Electronics for Model Railways-1
Electronics for Model Railways-2
 
Since releasing these two books, we have designed lots of extra projects and more are being released all the time.

There is a very large group of Model Railway enthusiasts around the world and nearly everyone's layout includes more and more electronic devices, modules and controllers.
But a lot of enthusiasts are not electronically adept and have either not studied electronics or had the good-fortune to have built electronic projects.
That's why many of the projects we have designed recently are available as a kit or already built and tested.
Even to put a kit together you have to be able to identify each part and fit it correctly as well as owning a fine tipped soldering iron and knowing how to solder quickly and cleanly to prevent overheating the component.
Most Model Railway magazines don't have circuits and projects you can build, mainly because they don't have the back-up of component suppliers, reliable kit suppliers or the staff needed to answer questions on fixing kits that don't work.
We have all these features at TALKING ELECTRONICS and everything is backed by emails and service.
Most emails from us are very short as we have hundreds of emails to attend to each week but you must reply with one question at a time and eventually your problem will be solved.   

Colin Mitchell

If you have DCC Digital Command Control on your model railway, or are thinking about using it or starting a layout with this feature, here is a website dedicated to helping you:
http://www.dccconcepts.com.au/

Digital Command Control is a standard for a system to operate model railways so that two or more locomotives can be controlled independently on the same section of track.
Talking Electronics has a simple DCC controller for two trains on the same track and decoders that convert your DC locos to DCC.
But there are more than 3 different manufacturers of systems that are called "DCC" and each has a different set of "code-signals" to perform a particular operation.
The system (coding) we use is the USA: NMRA National Model Railroad Association
https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/s-9.1_electrical_standards_2006.pdf
And the hand-held COMMAND CONTROL, we use for testing all the modules is: NCE Power CAB.
HORNBY DCC has completely different DCC signals and is NOT the same as NRMA signals.

NOTE:
Many of the projects and circuit and ideas in this eBook are available from Talking Electronics as complete kits, fully assembled, or as components at very low prices.
Talking Electronics has sold over 300,000 kits during the past 45 years and about 100,000 have been Model Railway kits. You can now get many of the kits fully assembled and tested for those who have a layout but not a soldiering iron.
Many of the projects are so new and different and complex that you will not understand them fully. Email: Colin Mitchell and ask for assistance before buying or doing anything.


Here are some wonderful layouts and videos taken from the front and back of the trains on the layouts  . . . .   from MODEL RAILWAY LAYOUTS PLANS.com

http://modelrailwaylayoutsplans.com/dave-tidies-up-his-layout/?inf_contact_key=93a9574ff8f6930e95fe40eaba006a971b0a3f0fd3ee5d9b43fb34c6613498d7"
Video:
https://youtu.be/MnBfqBCWNp4
You must join:   MODEL RAILWAY LAYOUTS PLANS.com because they send a new layout every day with videos.
This link show the enormous amount of wiring required for a layout with points and signals.

This is the latest: http://modelrailwaylayoutsplans.com/john-shows-us-more-of-his-stunning-layout/?inf_contact_key=d02020000d3e42e28f99cc8a315cea07d18a532c4142cb79caf2b269de1401fa

Here are 2 of the latest images:

There are 200 more photos of layouts on the website:  
MODEL RAILWAY LAYOUTS PLANS.com and by joining them via email you will get an email each day with more wonderful layouts.
These layouts show the enthusiasm and skill and interest and dedication and endless amounts of money invested in this hobby.
Talking Electronics is only able to help with the electronics side-of-things and you will find most of the layouts in MODEL RAILWAY LAYOUTS PLANS.com have very little in the way of street lighting, billboard signs, crossing lights, boom gates etc because few people know about our range of products.    Now you know, your layout can include lots more. So, don't think you have "gone too far" until you see all the layouts and spent all your spare money for the next 5 years. Your layout can always be "passed-on" or sold, so nothing is wasted. The biggest electronics hobby is model railways. And the greatest joy is squatting-down and watching a train come "head-on." The first time Edison presented a train like this on the "big screen," women fainted. You will just be over-joyed with the realism it produces. And we have a To-Fro project to do this for you automatically.

Many hobbyists wonder how to start a track layout.
Rather than use the back of an old door with a single loop, you can get more track on an "L-shaped" table and start with a single track:

The next stage is to add points (turn-outs) or cross-overs:


Or you can add reverse-loops:

Talking Electronics has many different modules to operate points remotely and you will find them all here, in this article, on the page you are now viewing. Here are some layouts from readers:

Every project needs POWER. Power is ENERGY (actually: Power over a period of TIME is energy) and it comes from a battery or a POWER SUPPLY.
We are going to describe a POWER SUPPLY that connects to the mains of your house.
A Power Supply provides TWO THINGS. It provide a VOLTAGE and a CURRENT.
The voltage can be oscillating "up-and-down" or "reversing" and we call this ALTERNATING VOLTAGE and it is given the letters AC. The letters AC actually mean ALTERNATING CURRENT and the term comes from the very beginning of supplying energy to houses when two rival companies had a war. One company supplied DIRECT VOLTAGE and the other supplied ALTERNATING VOLTAGE. The first was called DC and the second called AC.
The voltage at all power points of a house is ALTERNATING and to convert it to DC requires a transformer, a rectifier and a smoothing capacitor called an electrolytic.
We will not be concerned with any of these components but the three values we will be covering is: THE VOLTAGE    THE CURRENT and if the output is AC or DC.
A POWER SUPPLY plugs into your wall socket and delivers a VOLTAGE, a CURRENT and lets you know if the output is AC or DC. A Power Supply can also be called a Wall Wart, Plug Pack, Adapter or "Converter."

A POWER SUPPLY FOR YOUR MODEL RAILWAY
You will need at least 2 or 3 different power supplies for your layout. This is because a layout requires at least two different voltages.
Normally, these are very expensive, buy we are going to show how to use all sorts of "junk" and "discarded" power supplies from computers, shavers, toothbrushes, toys, printers, faxes, mobile phones, old electric drill chargers and anything you no-longer use, and convert them into a power supply.
They will cost you little or nothing and they will work PERFECTLY.
But you need to know what you are doing as there are lots of different options.
The Li-ion 4-cell power supply we will be describing is equal to $100 power supply (from a model railway supplier) and the $35 Power Supply (we will be describing)  using 5 Li-ion cells can be used as a BENCH POWER SUPPLY for all your testing and is equal to a $100 product. And some of the other power supplies we will be describing will cost you either nothing or just a few dollars.
Once you have a power supply, we will describe the next item on your list, a THROTTLE. (This is covered in Chapter 4 - halfway down). This is the module that connects between a power supply and delivers a voltage and current to the track to control the speed of the loco.

A typical "Wall Wart" or "Plug Pack" or "Adapter"

Power supplies are also called wall warts, plug packs, chargers or adaptors and must be of the type that is SAFE. In other words, you must be able to touch the output wires and the tap in the kitchen and not get killed.
This is not a joke. If the adaptor is only designed to be used with a fully plastic item, it may be lacking isolation as you cannot touch any of the wiring. This will only refer to very old devices where a simple capacitor was used to convert the household voltage to a situation where the output current and voltage was fairly low when you measured across the two output wires. But when you measured between either wire and the frame of a toaster, the voltage was 315 volts !!!
Throw out anything that you are not absolutely sure is safe.
I had one customer blowing up one my modules because he has two plug packs and one was leaking. It put a high voltage on the module and damaged the microcontroller 5 times. I asked him to put the module on batteries to prove the problem was the plug packs. He changed the plug packs and fixed the problem.
Suppose you have a handful of say 10 different, old, unwanted, useless adaptors.
We are going to show how to connect two or three together to produce a voltage suitable for many of our railway projects.
 
Make 4 piles. The first will have current ratings from 100mA to 500mA.
The next will have current ratings from 600mA to 1 amp
The third pile will be 1 amp and higher.
And the fourth pile is for those adaptors that deliver AC.
From these piles you will be able to make a power supply using two adaptors by wiring the outputs IN SERIES.
Many of the CDU projects from Talking Electronics need an input of 20v DC to 25v DC.  The current can be as low as 100mA as the electrolytics in the CDU will take up to 1 amp if the the power supply can deliver this current, but if the available current is 100mA, the CDU will simply take longer to charge the electrolytics.
So, almost any power supply can be used and it is the voltage that is needed so the electrolytics charge to the maximum.
If you have two 12v DC adaptors with a current rating from 100mA to 1 amp, they can be combined together by connecting the output wires IN SERIES. If one adaptor is 100mA and the other 1amp, they can be combined and all that will happen is the output current will be limited to 100mA. You can even connect 3 adaptors in series to get a total voltage of 25v.
This is one way to use low-output-voltage adaptors to power the CDU project on your model railway.
Some adaptors are only 3v to 4v to 5v and they can all be combined. 

USING DC ADAPTORS IN PARALLEL
You can also connect adaptors in PARALLEL - DC adapters. This involves connecting the negative output of one to the negative of the other and the two positives together.
Ideally, the output voltage of each adaptor should be the same as this will equalise the load-sharing.
But many adaptors have a high output voltage that drops as the load is applied.
For instance a 12v 500mA adaptor can be as high as 17v on no-load and this voltage will drop to 12v when 500mA is flowing.
The other adaptor may be 14v on no-load and 12v when 500mA is flowing.
These two adaptors can produce a 12v 1 amp power supply ONLY IF the actual sharing between the two is EQUAL. Otherwise the output voltage will be 17v on no-load and gradually drop to 12v as the current flowing to the load increases to 1 amp. And the current-sharing will change from 0:100 %  to something nearing 50:50 %
It is pointless placing a 12v and 5v adaptor in parallel as the 5v adapter will never deliver any current.
THE SOLUTION:
The two adapter share 50:50 when the output voltage is exactly the same. This will never be the case but no damage will be done if each adapter has a diode on the output that prevents one adapter passing any current to the other. You will lose about 0.7v and the output voltage will be 0.7v lower than previously, but it will allow two adaptors to be placed in parallel.
What will happen is this: The adapter with the higher voltage will deliver ALL the current. As you increase the velocity of the loco, the increased current will cause the output voltage to reduce and when it matches the output voltage of the second plug-pack, the two will share the current. In reality the second plug-pack will simply "start-delivering" and the voltage will not reduce much further. 
If you want to see if each adaptor is supplying equal current, replace the diodes with two small "one ohm" resistors (one in each line) and operate your loco. Feel each resistor and see if they are getting "equally-hot."

Here is a typical 18v power supply for a model railway.  This is the ideal supply, but it is expensive and our aim is to show how to produce the same output voltage by using much cheaper items (Plug Packs etc.)

18v Power Supply

USING AC ADAPTORS IN PARALLEL
You can connect AC adapters in parallel, providing they produce the same output.
The only way to check this is to connect them together at one end and flick the other two leads to make them spark. If they produce a large spark, you need to change the leads from one adapter.
If you flick the leads and a small spark is created, they do not match perfectly and one or both will get hotter than normal as current will flow through the secondary windings.
It is very difficult to make any other tests without using a multimeter.
When you connect one end of each together and connect a multimeter (set to low AC voltage) to the other two leads, the meter should NOT SHOW any voltage. This means the output of each adapter is rising and falling at the same time and with the same amplitude. 

USING DC ADAPTORS IN SERIES
Here are two Plug Packs connected in series:

You can connect any TWO or THREE together and the output voltage will be the sum of all the voltages and the current will be determined by the lowest current of the 3 adapters.

This is very handy for CAPACITOR DISCHARGE UNITS as they need a voltage of approx 16v to 25v DC to fully charge the capacitors.

If you do not have any old Plug Packs, you can buy new ones on eBay for a few dollars.

You can buy 1Amp or 2Amp Plug Packs.
You will need:
1 x 12v adapter  and 1 x 5v  adapter for a THROTTLE.
2 x 12v 1Amp adapters for a Capacitor Discharge Unit.
Total of 4 Plug Packs.

Here are some examples:

THE BEST ADAPTOR:

The best DC adapter for all the CDU modules is a 24v or 30v supply made from two  12v adaptors in series of three 10v adaptors in series.
If the CDU module has an on-board regulator, the 30v supply is the best as it will charge the electros to a maximum of 27v.
For all the other CDU modules, you should use two 12v adaptors in series and the electros will charge to about 23v. 

5v, 10v, 15v POWER SUPPLY
You can use your unwanted phone chargers to make a 5v, 10v or 15v power supply of 500mA, 1 amp or 2.4 amp.
You can only use one of the outlets from each charger as each lead must have the positive and negative leads isolated for the other leads as you are adding one voltage "on top" of the other. You can combine any 500mA, 1Amp, or 2.4 amp devices and the lowest current will determine the final current you will be able to get. 
Simply connect the red lead of one to the black lead of another as shown in the diagram below to get the voltage you want.

I put 1,000u 25v electrolytics across each 5v output
to improve the current sharing. (not shown)

The $2.50 plug Pack above was purchased as 12v @ 1 amp.  It was easily opened-up via a screw and clip, to reveal the PC board shown below.
The output voltage is determined by the zener diode at the front of the board. The 12v zener was replaced with 15v and now the output is 15v DC. I would limit the current to 800mA, but a 15v supply can be connected to many of the throttle circuits covered later in this article to give 0v to 12v DC output.  The zener diode is "sitting high" to show the diode in this discussion and also to allow test chips to measure the voltage across it. It was then resoldered close to the board and the cover replaced. This module is LIVE when out of the case, so don't touch anything.

The new 15v zener converts this power adapter to 15v output.

You can also use a white LED in series with the
12v zener diode to get 15v output. Note the cathode of the zener is connected
to the cathode of the LED and the 1k current-limiting resistor is
linked with a jumper (it is not used).
Thus the 15v output drives the LED (3v drop) and the 12v
zener drops 12v. The anode of the zener is connected to 0v.
The result is 15v output.

36V !!
Some of the CDU projects can be supplied with 30v to 36v DC to fully charge the electrolytic(s).
You can make a 36v supply very cheaply by using 24v and 12v plug packs and these are available on eBay for less than $10.00 (for both) including postage.    
Simply connect the leads as shown in the following diagram to get 36v.
Some of these plug packs have a current detecting overload circuit and "shut-down" if the current is more than 1 amp (even for a millisecond).
To prevent this we add a 47 ohm resistor.
This "trick" only applies when you are using the plug packs for our CDU modules as the high current is only required for a few seconds and then falls to a very low value and the resistor will not get warm when used for this particular application.  

We now supply a pre-voltage module
that takes 12v DC to 20v DC and converts it to 26v DC
seeBOOST CONVERTER

THE ALTERNATIVE TO A WALL WORT
Because a Wall Wort producing 13v AC or 27v DC is fairly difficult to obtain (almost impossible) Talking Electronics has produced a number of CDU modules that accept almost any voltage (AC or DC or DCC) from 9v to 15v (either AC or DC) and the on-board voltage generating circuit will produce an output of exactly 27v DC.
The latest module to have this feature is JIM's CDU MkII and it has a mini trim pot to adjust the output voltage from 13v to 27v DC to cater for all different types of solenoid points. 
This module has on-board push-switches to control the position of the point and each module is designed to be connected to a single point or two or three points that ALL need to be activated AT THE SAME TIME.   You can see the project HERE.
This is just one way to get around the problem for the moment, but at some point in your plans to produce a large layout, you will need a POWER SUPPLY. You can spend a lot of money on a POWER SUPPLY but Talking Electronics is always aiming to show the cheapest and best way to get something at the lowest cost.

Let's look at what we are talking about:

BENCH POWER SUPPLY
A Bench Power Supply is the name given to a power supply that looks like the following images:

They come in all sorts of arrangements and offer current limiting and output voltages from 0v  to 35v (or higher) at 1 amp to 10 Amp or more.
But these cost a lot and you can build a similar "instrument" (a piece of test gear is called an INSTRUMENT) for less and since it will be "out of a case" you will be constantly reminded of how it has been put together.

Power Supply MkII
0-12v DC(voltage adjustable)   0-1Amp(current adjustable)
Power Supply MkII kit from
Talking Electronics for $20.00 plus $7.50 postage. 
Click HERE for details.
(see the full article HERE)

The following project is a 0v to 12v BENCH POWER SUPPLY  with current limiting and has an output of 1 amp. This is sufficient for all types of testing and you can increase the values by referring to the circuit.
The whole idea is to create projects at the lowest cost and have them open for viewing so you can remember how they were assembled.      

This is the cheapest, safest Power Supply you can get.
It will deliver 0-12v at 1amp and you can limit the current to a few milliamp so you will not damage a project you are designing.
It has 14v at 5 amp  - called an AUXILIARY OUTPUT  - that connects directly to 4 cells and you need to be careful as the Li-ion cells are capable of delivering up to 50 amps if the wires are shorted.
This project is called a BENCH POWER SUPPLY as it is a handy piece of TEST EQUIPMENT that is designed to deliver a controlled voltage for a project you are developing.
It is not a continuous power supply as the cells need to be charged (when the indicator LED does not illuminate).
The Li-ion cells are available on eBay for a few dollars each and you can buy a single-cell charger for a few dollars. These chargers are microcontroller based and they stop charging when the cell is fully charged. You cannot charge the cells from a "battery charger."
You can also get a single-cell charger PCB that connects to your laptop USB socket and it will charge a cell very quickly. But you will only be able to charge one cell at a time.
All these things are covered later in the article.

POWER SUPPLY MkII Circuit
You can use 2 x 470R @ 0.25watt or 1 x 1k @ 0.5watt

The new PC board uses 1k (in place of 220R shown above as the
current limiting resistor for the white LED) to keep the
brightness low to stop blinding you.

Here is a set of 4 Li-ion cells. Just use the 4 lower cells in a 4-cell carrier. The top cell is just to increase the voltage slightly so the project will produce slightly more than 12v at 1 amp.

You can buy Li-ion cells for about $2.50 each on eBay. They have a capacity of about
2 Amp-hour to 3 amp-hour.

The 4-cell carrier can be bought on eBay for about $2.50

The following 4-cell charger can be bought on eBay for about $3.50.
This will charge the cells at about 70mA to 150mA and it will take about 24 hours to fully charge a depleted set of cells. 

The charger below will charge a single cell at about 500mA to 700mA and connects to your USB port on a laptop. You can only charge one cell at a time with this arrangement.

The 1 ohm resistor will discharge the cell quickly. The cell voltage must not go below a minimum voltage of 2.8v. You need to place a voltmeter across the resistor while discharging to make sure you do not discharge the cell below its recommended minimum.  The module in the photo charges the cell quite quickly and at 4.2v the cell is charged to 90% (or more) and the circuit turns OFF.
You must use a charger that turns OFF when the cell is charged as this type of cell cannot be left charging on a "trickle charger" as the cell will produce internal "whiskers" and it will get damaged.

More details of the project shown above can be found HERE.  It describes a 1 amp adjustable POWER SUPPLY that can be used to power your locos or as a BENCH POWER SUPPLY for all your testing. 

CHEAP BENCH POWER SUPPLY  - $5.00 A kit of components including PCB, jumper leads, solder, LED, a voltmeter and ammeter and a voltage-dropping set of power diodes is available for $5.00 plus postage. Click HERE for details. This is a special introductory price and will increase to $10.00 after the first 100 kits. You need to buy battery holders from Aliexpress and some Li-ion cell charging modules as well as a USB lead. Some parts are already soldered to the PCB but you need a soldering iron to complete the kit. Everyone needs a BENCH POWER SUPPLY. But these are expensive and take up a lot of room on the bench. You can build the Power Supply MkII (described above) or use all your old rechargeable cells from mobile phones and toys to make your own supply for just $5.00.  Talking Electronics supplies a kit of parts for $5.00 and it includes jumper leads, solder, a voltmeter and ammeter and a voltage-dropping set of power diodes to adjust the voltage from less than 1v to 20v, depending on the number of cells you can find around the home. Li-ion cells need to be charged individually and you can do this "one cell at a time" with our SOLAR CHARGING article or using a Li-ion charging module connected to the USB port of your lap top. This will give you a charging current of about 500mA with a $1.00 TP4056 / TC4056A Lithium cell Charger Module.  Three li-ion cells will produce a 12v supply and 4 cells will produce up to about 16v. You can use any of the older type cells -   Nickel Cadmium 1.2v cell or Nickel Metal Hydride  1.2v cell and any shape, size or type can be added together in any combination. You can use everything you have. Just add the cell-voltage of each cell to arrive at the final voltage. If you use cells with a different capacity, the smallest ones will discharged first and if you are using only a low voltage, these cells will become discharged first. That's why it will be difficult to know the state-of-charge for any of the cells. Each cell-type needs its own charger, because it has a different voltage and different charge-requirement.. If you do not have any chargers, you can use the following circuit to make a very simple charger that will take 24 hours to charge a COMPLETELY FLAT cell and you have to remember to remove the cell(s) at exactly 24 hours as the charger will keep charging and over-charge. The cells must be "flat" and have almost charge as we are assuming they need to be fully charged. You can charge 5 cells at a time from your lap-top and the resistors can be 0.25 watt carbon types. Once you have a set of fully charged cells, you can build the BENCH POWER SUPPLY. The row of nine power diodes remove 350mV across each diode and the first thing you do is select the voltage you want with the jumper lead. The voltage will start at zero and increase by 1.2v for each Ni-Cad cell or about 4v for each Li-ion cell. Select the voltage you want and clip the lead on the cell. Clip the other end of the jumper lead on the output of the power supply. The voltmeter will provide a reading of the voltage. If you want a slightly lower voltage, clip the alligator clip one diode to the left and the output voltage will reduce by 0.35v If you include 3 diodes, the voltage will reduce by 1v. This is only approximate and if you want an accurate reading you can use a multimeter. The voltage will reduce as the cells are used and as the current increases, but you can get almost any voltage from 1v to the full voltage of the cells. The diodes are rated at 3-amp and the heatsinking will allow 3-amp. The ammeter gives a fairly good indication of the current. The "converting resistors" for the ammeter and voltmeter are already soldered to the PCB as these are surface mount and convert the "movement" into an ammeter and voltmeter. You can use either "movement" for either instrument. The voltmeter and LED consumes 5mA so it is wise to remove the jumper lead to turn them off. This is called a HIGH CURRENT SUPPLY and will deliver a lot more than 3 amps if a short circuit occurs. That's why it is important to be sure the project you are testing does not have a "short." Start with a low voltage and touch the leads to the project and watch the ammeter. It is always best to use a weak supply made up of 8 old AA cells and test a new project. I have always done this and that's why I have never blown up a project. The current will be so low that everything is saved. This concept will prove the project works on a low voltage and then you can use the BENCH POWER SUPPLY to activate any high-current devices (such as motors). This project can also be used for all our Model Railway projects, including throttles, DCC controllers and CDU's.   WARNING This is called a LOW IMPEDANCE POWER SUPPLY. It will deliver 100 amps or more if the leads are "short circuited"  and the diodes will blow up. The 3 amp or 5 amp diodes do not limit the current. There is NO current limiting. I have a current-limiting power supply. It is very annoying. Many projects need a high current when starting a motor and the current-limiting feature up-sets the operation.

SOLAR CHARGING One of the most important pieces of equipment is a BENCH POWER SUPPLY. But this can cost $100 or more and unless you need a professional version, here is a much-cheaper item. I have 3 or more power supplies for testing the modules (I build and test them before dispatch). The first thing I do is connect a very weak power supply to see if the module will work on a low voltage. This also prevents anything being damaged as the set of 8  x AA cells will not deliver more than a few hundred milliamp.  That's why I have not blown anything up. Then I have 8 x size D manganese cells capable of delivering 5 amps to test throttles and finally an adjustable power supply with current limiting to test the Track Detector modules. But you can do this with a set of 4 x Li-ion cells and a SOLAR CHARGER described here. You can get size 18650 Li-ion cells with a capacity of 3A-Hr to 9A-Hr for between $2.00 and $4.00 per cell  from Aliexpress but I don't know the actual capacity of these cells, as the advert can say anything. However charging them is quite a problem as they have to be charged individually or in a special charger and this project provides an automatic solution that requires no attention. First you need a 4cell 18650 Battery Box that is fully connected and wires can be soldered to each cell. You need 4 x 18650 cells. 4 x 6v 150mA to 250mA solar panels 4 x TP4056 / TC4056A Lithium cell Charger Module The prices are only approximate. The diagram below shows how to connect each solar panel to the charging module and this is the only to connect the items as each section must be isolated or separated from the others. This design allows to you keep the cells as a 12v or 16v battery and you don't have top remove the cells when charging.

SOLAR PANELS Solar Panels are made up of lots of individual cells, connected in series. Each cell produces 0.55v and the size and quality of the cell determines the current it will produce. Some panels have extra cells and show a voltage higher than the rated voltage but when the panel is under full illumination the output voltage is very close to the specified voltage. The output current will vary enormously as the sun goes behind a cloud or shadows pass over the panel, while the voltage changes only a small amount. All panels output slightly differently according to their quality and for small panels you cannot go by the specification as these are grossly exaggerated. Small panels are ideal for trickle charging, for remote projects that do not need constant attention. You can put a milliamp meter in the positive lead to determine the charging current and work out of the daily charging will cover the energy used by the project. The circuit above is the only way to charge cells and have them remain as a 12v or 16v battery.

18650 BATTERY CAPACITY This simple circuit tests the capacity of a 18650 cell. Connect the circuit to the terminals of a clock mechanism and fit a fully charged rechargeable cell. Set the hands to 12 O'Clock and the clock will let you know how long the cell lasted until the voltage reached about 2.4v. Now fit another cell and see how long it lasts. You cannot work out the exact capacity of a cell but you can compare one cell with another. The initial current is about 450mA.

BATTERY CAPACITY TESTER TEST FAKE CELLS !! This circuit tests the capacity of a rechargeable cell. Lots of cells are FAKE. Just like the UltraFire cell below. It weights 30gms !! You cannot get 6amp-hr capacity into 30gms!! But what is the capacity of the cell?  Our cell had less than 0.5 amp-hr. Use this tester to find out: The resistors and diodes are simply easy-to-get components that make up a load to discharge the cell at about 600mA. This is a load of about 2.4watts and the resistors and diodes add up to a capability to dissipate 2.5 watts. The voltage of the cell drops from 4v to 2v and the current drops too. You can measure the voltage across the resistors and work out the current-flow. Don't fit an ammeter as the voltage -drops across it will reduce the current considerably. Don't use jumper leads as they drop about 350mV !! You can use any component(s) for the load, provided they don't get too hot. The buzzer starts to buzz when the voltage drops to 2v. You will need to adjust the value of the biasing resistors to reproduce this value if you are using a different transistor as the detection voltage can change by as much as 200mV with different makes of BC547.   Our cell lasted less than 2 hours and was obviously FAKE. Some cells have a much smaller  cell inside and that's why they weight only 28grams !! CHARGING A CELL A Li-Ion cell must be charged on a charger that cuts off when the voltage reaches about 4.2v. If you charge a cell from a variable power supply and do not monitor the terminal voltage of the cell, it will rise to over 5.5v and get damaged.

CURRENT
How much current do you need?  That is: how many AMPS do you need?
A small loco takes 300mA to 600mA and you need a 1AMP supply to make sure the necessary current can be supplied as the motor will take 800mA to 900mA when starting and accelerating and when hauling a number of coaches.
For a DC layout, you will generally only be running one loco at a time and a 1-Amp supply will be sufficient.
The current values mentioned above apply when the supply is 12v.
If the supply drops to say 10v, the current will be less and if the supply increases to 14v, the current will increase by a considerable amount (when the same motor is connected). It is impossible to state the actual values because the current taken by a motor increases and decreases due to the load and this load is not only the velocity of the train, but the acceleration and inclination of the track and also the rpm of the motor (as it takes more energy to rotate at higher rpm) and lots more current when the motor is "loaded."

AC TO DC
Before we finish, there is a bit of theory that needs to be understood.
We have mentioned the AC voltage and DC voltage on (or for) many of the projects.
The two values are a little bit different and you may be wondering why.
The technical reason is this: When you deliver 10v AC to a circuit that has diodes and capacitors (electrolytics) that convert the voltage to DC, the output is 40% higher than "10" because the 10v AC is actually 14v at the instant when the voltage is rising to a maximum and the capacitors get charged to this value. 
There is a loss of about 1.5v across the diodes in the circuit and the output becomes 12.5v
Quite often the manufacturer of the 10v AC transformer will add a few extra turns and the voltage will be 13v AC (under no load).  This is done because the output drops when full current is delivered (because the transformer is very poor quality) and this will ensure the output never goes below 10v AC. It drops from 13v to 10v - under full load.
However the 13v AC will produce 18.2v AC minus 1.5v = 16.7v DC when unloaded and if you deliver more than 13v AC, the resulting unloaded voltage may be too high for some of the electronic components - especially IC's.

CONCLUSION
You need to buy or make 2 POWER SUPPLIES:
15v to 17v  @ 1 amp POWER SUPPLY for a throttle (to drive a loco - suitable for 1 or 2 locos).
24v POWER SUPPLY for a Capacitor Discharge Unit. (less than 100mA needed)
Cost will less than $15.00 for up to 4 Plug Packs. (see above for details of the Plug Packs you need to buy.
If you build a Bench Power Supply (see Power Supply MkII) you will have an adjustable output voltage (0v to 12v DC) and you will be able to limit the current (from 30mA to 1 amp) so the project you are testing will not be damaged.

When you have the 2 Power Supplies, you can decide on the Capacitor Discharge Units and the Throttle module.

Under NO circumstances should you build a power supply with soldered wires or bare joints or bare leads going to the mains or any wiring with bare MAINS connections. One day a child may come and play with your equipment and touch exposed wires and get thrown across the room.
Always use Plug Packs (Wall Warts) or Power Supplies in a professional case. They are called "double insulated" and that means they do not have an earth lead. It also infers they do not have a metal case and this makes them extremely safe.  

CAPACITOR-INPUT POWER SUPPLIES
You may find instructions or a circuit on the web for a CAPACITOR-INPUT POWER SUPPLY.
This is a power supply with just a single or even 2 capacitors connected to the mains, followed by a bridge and an electrolytic. There is no transformer in this type of power supply and although you think the capacitor separates the mains from the 12v output, IT DOES NOT.
It does reduce the voltage of the mains to say 12v DC after the bridge, but if you touch either of the output wires and a water tap or kettle or toaster, you will get a jolt of 240v AC and although the current may be less than 100mA, you only need 15mA to kill you. It's the duration of the electric shock that is finally fatal and if you are under a railway layout and cannot remove your hand fast enough, you will get fried.
Another point to remember. This has NEVER been mentioned before. The output of a cap-fed power supply is only 12v when the diode bridge and 12v zener is connected. If any of these wires are cut, the "12v section" becomes 336 volts !! The 12v zener is called the LOAD and when you connect your project to this power supply, the current passing through the zener is now diverted from the zener and to your project. But if the zener "blows up" and then your project "blows up" you will have 336volts on your project.
This type of power supply is illegal in many countries and hopefully you will never see one. BUT this comment is to inform you: NOT TO BUILD A CAPACITOR-INPUT POWER SUPPLY.  

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BOOST CONVERTER
Finally we have a module that will answer a lot of your problems.
It is a DC to DC converter that converts a low voltage DC to a higher voltage DC. Commonly called a BOOST CONVERTER.  (A converter that converts a high voltage DC to a low voltage DC is called a BUCK CONVERTER).
All our Capacitor Discharge Units now come with a Boost Converter module connected to the input terminals of the CDU module.
Here is an example:
The input wires (on the right) will accept a DC voltage from 5v to 20v DC (from a plug pack or wall wort) and produce an output voltage that has been adjusted by the 10-turn pot. We set the output voltage to 26.5v so the electrolytics on the CDU module see a voltage of 25v (after the input diodes).
This has now solved all our problems of getting the right voltage for the CDU modules so they produce the full output.
The boost module can deliver up to 2 amps and this means the CDU module will charge very quickly (if required).  However any plug pack can be used and even a 200mA plug pack @ 5v  will charge the module in less than a few seconds. The speed of charge (recovery) will depend on the voltage and current capability of the plug pack and the number of electrolytics on the module and the microfarad value of each electrolytic.

 

This is PART "A"  of our discussion on controlling a point.
They are called POINT CONTROLLERS and use a servo or motor and gearbox that we supply with the module.
(see PART "B" to control a point containing a solenoid)

POINTS - TURNOUTS
Talking Electronics makes 8 different modules to assist and change and active the points in your layout (to suit different voltages and different situations). That's why you have to read Part "A" and Part "B"

A Point Controller is a "device" or "MOTOR" or "SOLENOID" that changes the point from "ahead" to "Siding."
The ACTUATING MECHANISM can be a double-acting solenoid to move the rails from one position to the other. Or it can be done with a motor and gearbox or a micro motor and gearbox or a SERVO or even a LINEAR ACTUATOR. These all come in different sizes and at different costs.
That's why there is a number of different projects.
This section does not cover the SOLENOID POINT. See Chapter Three to control a SOLENOID POINT with a CAPACITOR DISCHARGE UNIT. 

All layouts need a point or lots of points so you can make an impressive layout and have the trains leave and enter the main line and provide shunting yards and loops and interconnecting lines.
There are so many choices for a point and so many different expenses that we have simplified everything and created the best control modules on the market at the lowest cost for all the different situations.

WHERE DO YOU START?

Start by buying the cheapest left or right hand point FOR MANUAL OPERATION. This is the  version we will convert to either remote or automatic operation.

This is a MANUAL POINT

If you have a solenoid operated point, we will cover it later:
This is a point with a solenoid actuator to move the rails. We will cover this later in the article. We will firstly cover a MOTOR to activate the point.

CHOICE NUMBER 1:
This module converts a manual point into a remotely controlled point.
There are a number of modules available and the differences will be cost, size, and fast or slowing changing of the point.
The first choice is: POINT CONTROLLER using 3v MOTOR and WORM GEARBOX for $20.50. 
Click  Here to order.

We connect a motor and worm gearbox as shown in the following image to the actuating lever on the point:

Image shows the control rod on the gearbox is
bent to fit the push-bar of the point.
The movement of the control rod will activate the point.
You have to provide some "springyness" to the push-bar so that a train coming
in the wrong direction will (from the right) will separate the
rails and not be derailed. 

The arm (lever) on the output of the gearbox
is activated about 90° but will move less than this when
restricted by the "throw" of the lever connected to the point.
Cut the arm to length and bend it carefully by using a pair
of pliers to hold the arm and don't let it move where it is held
by the plastic output gear.
Mount the motor and gearbox with double-sided tape when
adjusting its position and finally use glue to hold it in place.
The two 500R pots on the latest PC board (not shown) allow you to adjust the
strength of the "throw" of the arm.

The following image is the module that controls and limits the motor's operation. It allows the motor to be connected to a 9v to 16v AC or DC supply.

The module with motor/gearbox is available from Talking Electronics
for $25.00 including postage.

You get a micro motor with worm gearbox and module and DPDT push-push switch and the position of the point is shown on the red and green LEDs on the module. The movement of the point is fairly rapid. There are other modules with slow movement.

The circuit above uses a 3v micro motor with worm gearbox. The latest PC board has a number of improvements with two 500R pots to adjust the strength of the throw of the arm. 

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CHOICE NUMBER 2:
In place of the micro motor and worm gearbox shown above, you can use a converted servo, as shown in the following image. The servo is converted to a MOTOR and GEARBOX.
This module is called POINT CONTROLLER using converted SERVO  for $19.00 plus $6.50 postage. 
Click  Here to order.

The activating module comes with a push-push switch and knob, that clicks when pushed and unclicks when pushed again.
The module limits the output arm of the servo to less than 45 degrees and the position of the point is shown on the red and green LEDs. A length of gold wire is included for the linkage.
The movement of the point is fairly rapid. There are other modules with slow movement.

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CHOICE NUMBER 3:
This module is identical to Choice Number 2, but this has two mini trim pots to adjust the amount of travel of the arm on the servo..

This choice is: POINT CONTROLLER using converted SERVO ver 4 for $21.50. 
Click  Here to order.

The Printed Circuit Board has 2 x 500R mini trim pots to adjust the amount of travel of the output arm.

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CHOICE NUMBER 4:
This module is called POINT CONTROLLER using 555 IC  for $18.00 plus $6.50 postage. 
Click  Here to order.
The on-board toggle switch changes the point via a servo fairly slowly and this is the main difference from the other modules.  The servo and gold-wire linkage are included with the module. The module outputs a PWM signal to the servo to provide a limit-to-rotation in both directions and this is adjustable on the new version via mini trim pot (not shown on photo).

The on-board LEDs show the position of the point.     

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CHOICE NUMBER 5:
This module is called POINT CONTROLLER using 555 IC with mini trim pots Ver4 for $20.00. (plus postage $6.50).   Click  Here to order.
 

Click  Here to order.
This is the latest version with mini trim pots to adjust the end positions of the converted servo.

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CHOICE NUMBER 6:
If you want the servo to move slowly to produce a realistic effect, we have a module called JIM's SLOW SERVO for $xx0.00 including module, servos and  extension lead.
Click  Here to order.  This module allows the servo to move very slowly. (PC Boards are currently being produced)

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CHOICE NUMBER 7:
If your layout has a number of points that need controlling, we have a 5 SERVO Controller module that controls 5 servo's separately with very slow action.
This module is called 5 POINT CONTROLLER  for $45.00 including module with microcontroller, 5 servos and 5 extension leads. The servos provided with this module are the small 9g version as these servos are guaranteed to work very very slowly from a particular manufacturer. The servos are $2.50 each and the extension leads for the servos are $1.50 each. You can also get aluminium brackets to hold the servo under your layout for $2.50 each. 
The 5 POINT CONTROLLER  costs $20.00 if you have your own servos, but remember we test all modules with the very small servos before posting, to make sure they all respond to the PWM signals. The new module uses a PIC16F628 microcontroller as it has more input/output lines and the on-board LEDs show the position of each point. 
Click  Here to order.

 

The on-board tactile buttons need to be pressed for about 1/2 second for the program to recognise the button and activate the servo to set the point to the correct position. You need to set each point so that the PC board reflects the correct position of the point. Do this will all 5 points and you are ready to drive the loco.

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CHOICE NUMBER 8:
This project allows you to use any old IR remote control from a TV or VCR to control your points. See the full details HERE
Click HERE to buy a module.  $29.00 usd plus $8.50 usd shipping
Comes with IR remote control, 3.7v back-up battery, hut for battery and track voltage pick-off

The 3.7v back-up cell comes in a Hut too

The sides of the Hut and the battery box comes as a kit
and you need to glue or solder them together to create
the hut shown in the picture above.

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CHOICE NUMBER 9:
Point Controller-1 with Point ID
This project uses a converted servo to control a point.
The angular movement of the motor/gearbox is controlled by the 50k pot and the third 555 is set to toggle-mode to show the position of the point via 2 LEDs on the module with an outline showing the track with siding. This makes it easy to see the position of the point. 
The input can be AC or DC - from 7v to 14v and it is always best to use 8v to 12v DC as this will keep the BC338 regulator transistor cool. 

Click HERE to buy a module.  $22.00 usd plus $8.50 usd shipping

This is the latest design of Point Controllers with track ID on the module using two LEDs. Every new module has improvements to make your layout more impressive and easier to operate.
We are the only designer and manufacturer of these modules and no-one has copied them because we sell at a price that is below the cost of all other manufacturers. And we supply back-up and help that is beyond the knowledge of other manufacturers. These circuits may look simple, but if they were simple, they would have been designed 10 years ago. 

A description of how the circuits works is HERE

CHOICE NUMBER 10:
Point Controller- 2 with Point ID
This project uses converted servos to control 2 points.
See CHOICE NUMBER 20 for 1 Motor/gearbox    2 Motor/gearboxes

The angular movement of the motor/gearbox is controlled by the resistors under the PCB and the voltage of the pre-voltage module. The position of the point is shown by 2 LEDs on the module with an outline showing the track with siding. This makes it easy to see the position of the point. 
The input can be AC or DC - from 7v to 14v and it is always best to use 8v to 12v DC. 

Click HERE to buy a module.  $25.00 usd plus $12.00 usd shipping

This is the latest design of Point Controllers with track ID on the module using two LEDs. Every new module has improvements to make your layout more impressive and easier to operate.
We are the only designer and manufacturer of these modules and no-one has copied them because we sell at a price that is below the cost of all other manufacturers. And we supply back-up and help that is beyond the knowledge of other manufacturers. These circuits may look simple, but if they were simple, they would have been designed 10 years ago.

SUMMARY
A manual point costs between $15.00 and $25.00. (you can buy these from any model railway shop) The modules above cater for all sorts of different requirements (such as speed of activation, cost, 1 or 5 points) and this means a remotely activated point can be added to your layout for as little as $40.00
Our Point Controllers convert a manual point to a remotely operated point and you get point indication via two LEDs for less than a solenoid operated point.

But there are other options, so keep reading.
And there are a number of options for a point that has SOLENOID OPERATION - and this is covered next. 

POINT MOTORS
Here are 4 common POINT MOTORS.
They can be connected to our CDU Modules to produce fast switching of the rails and at the same time the CDU Module prevents the solenoids getting hot or warm.
SEEP is just a manufacturers name, just like Peco and Kato. The KATO point motor (solenoid) is a lot better.
SEEP is a very old, cheap and poorly designed actuator, designed by a person who knew nothing about electromagnet fundamentals. The same with PECO point motors. But their poor design has allowed us to start an electronics business, designed to fix all the problems and produce over a hundred different modules for Model Railways.

Point Motors are also called Point Controllers or Switch Machines and you need to be very careful as some of them need control electronics (which is not included in the price) while others are just an empty box.
Most of them do no provide identification on your control panel,  so you don't know which way your train is heading. 
Some designs just stall the motor to stop the activation. It doesn't take much skill to stop a motion by stalling the motor.
Most of them are very old designs that should have been deleted 30 years ago. They are inefficient and prone to overheating. The problem is the fact that many are designed to connect to existing track and this makes them easy to install.
Others are big and bulky and need very careful alignment because the actuating rod is solid and not flexible.
None of them get a rating of more than 3 out 10 but Talking Electronics has a range that replaces these controllers and provides identification of the point-position on your control panel.
We have compiled a list of the most popular Switch Machines and cover the problems and costs of each.
Point Motors are sorted into 2 groups. Above and below your layout. In each group we have fast, slow and solenoid operation. Then we have have, size and cost and features, such as extra contacts. You need to contact Colin Mitchell before buying anything.

Blue Point Switch Machine  $14.00 usd This is just an empty box. You need a strong push-rod to your control panel to activate the mechanism. You push and pull the rod to change the point. Here is the push-rod.   No electronics. No favourable comments from buyers. The push-rod has to be bought separately and adds to the expense. 5 Points total cost:  $120.00 usd	Turtle Slow Motion Switch Machine $10.00 usd The Turtle Slow Motion Switch Machine is fitted under your layout and requires an electronics module to provide slow activation for the servo.  The module will activate 5 Slow Motion Switch Machines and costs $25.00 usd plus $10.00 for five 2metre extension leads.   5 Points total cost:  $85.00 usd  You can also get a servo controller to move the point slowly for $10.00 and 2m extension leads for $3.00usd (with plug and socket on the lead).  You need to contact Talking Electronics before buying anything to get all the details.
Tortoise Slow Motion Switch Machine $35.00 usd  Motor stalls at each end of throw (4 mA during operation, 15—16 mA at stall) You need a DPDT switch and 9v power supply to reverse the motor. This is DC operation.  5 Points total cost:  $195.00 usd (incl leads and switches)	Turtle Fast Switch Machine $8.00 usd This Switch Machine is fast in operation and very small.  It requires an electronics module for operation (and timing) and has point indication to show the position of the point. The timing module TURTLE FAST controls 5 points and costs $25.00 usd plus $10.00 for five 2metre extension leads.     The motor is NOT a stalled motor.   5 Points total cost:  $75.00 usd
COBALT Analogue $35.00usd This is exactly the same as theTortoise model above. It has been copied and uses the stalled motor feature. No-one has thought of adding point identification on a Control Panel. The output is a slow-motion action. There are other models that have fixed some of these problems.  5 Points total cost:  $195.00 usd (incl leads and switches)	You can choose the Slow Motion or Fast Action Turtle Switch Machines from Talking Electronics for less than 50% of the cost of the devices on the left. They all fit under your layout and Talking Electronics modules include a Face Plate for your Control Panel to show the position of the point via two LEDs. The cost for 5 Points:  $85.00 usd Here is a sample of the face plate with the LEDs showing the position of the point.
Another motor and gearbox for installation under your layout. This MP5 module has either limit switches or timing to turn off the motor when it reaches the end of travel and is not a "stalled Motor" design. 5 Points total cost:  $195.00 usd (incl leads and switches)	Slow Motion and Fast Action Turtle Switch Machines do not have switches or relays or extra contacts and are simple to connect to your Control Panel with 2 or  3-core lead.    A 2-core extension lead (2metres long) costs $2.00 extra. All Point Machines come with 4 tiny self-tapping screws and are very to fit the spring steel activator providing tension on the "tie-bar."  A 3-core extension lead (2metres long) costs $3.00 extra. All the control rod are 0.45mm spring steel and make fitting very easy as the alignment is not critical. A simple engineering fact that no-one has considered.
Here is a point controller from Fulgurex that is either no longer available or very hard to find. It uses a worm drive and screw to produce linear motion and the switches on the side stop the travel.	It only takes 2 grams of force to move the tie bar - - so why use a huge motor and gearbox to provide the force???
Here is a Gear Motor from Micro-Mark. $18.00 usd Here are the instructions: https://www.micromark.com/Instructions/83201-switch-tender-inst.pdf Another terrible "stalled Motor" design.	Most of the Point Controllers on the left are big and expensive and do not come with wiring or control switches. Many are no longer available, out of stock or difficult to purchase. But they give you ideas of how to make one yourself.
Another point controller that is hard to find. It is exactly the same as Fulgurex. You may be able to connect the switches to turn them into limit-switches.
These are all SOLENOID POINT MOTORS and need 12v or more to activate. They must be activated for less than 1/2 second to prevent them getting too hot. Talking Electronics has a number of modules that provide a high current pulse for less than 0.5 seconds and these activating modules are all called Capacitor Discharge Units (CDU's)	CDU Modules $8.00usd to $15.00 usd per point. All the Point Motors on the left are double-acting solenoids and have a very low resistance. When used on about 12v, the current can be as high as 3-4 amps and if they are activated for more than a second, they will get very hot. The solution is to control these Point Motors with a Capacitor Discharge Unit that sends a high current pulse to the Point Motor via a capacitor. Talking Electronics has over 15 different modules and they are available as single units or a set of 5 with switches and LEDs to show the position of the Point.  The cost ranges from $8.00 usd a point to $18.00 usd and you need to look at all the images and  descriptions to see what you need. We also have CDU modules for KATO points and these are a singe solenoid device with a magnetic core so that reversing the polarity of the voltage will produce activation in the opposite direction. KATO modules will not work on the other Point Motors and the same applies in reverse. You need to buy the correct module. Prices for KATO are the same as the other modules.  No other manufacturer has the feature of Point Identification.
TURTLE POINT CONTROLLERS Where do you start? All Turtle Point Controllers are designed for UNDER your Layout. Here is the size comparison: The cheapest way to start is with a Turtle Slow Motion Switch Machine and a servo controller, plus an extension lead and mini power supply for $18.00 usd. All you have to do is connect the power supply to 9v to 15v via the two alligator clips and turn the control pot. Everything is wired and connected. This produces a manually-operated single point (to get you started with the concept and easy installation.)  You change the position of the point via a knob on the SERVO controller module and the servo follows your rotation. You can return this for 2-points and a module with a face-plate, and programmed operation via a microcontroller, for $43.00 usd We then have a 5-servo module for 5 points and 2m leads for $85.00 usd We also have an automatic module that changes the position of the point so the loco enters the point with it already correct.  It has IR detection and costs:
DCC Point Modules
	Talking Electronics has a range of Modules for your DCC set-up, to control the position of a point via a DCC Controller such as NCE Power CAB. The address can be any number but typically they are set to address 40 and then you press key"1" for a toggle action of the point. Every point has a different address. Start by reading this: DCC Point Module

This is PART "B"  of our discussion on controlling a point.
This part uses a Capacitor Discharge circuit to control a solenoid on your point to prevent it "burning out."
You must read all of this discussion as some modules can be wired to operate many points (one after the other) while some modules can only be connected to ONE POINT.

Talking Electronics is gradually phasing-out all the older modules and concentrating on those with indicator LEDs and the modules that also activate a 2-Aspect signal.
This has been done because we now supply a pre-voltage module with all CDU's so you can connect any voltage from 9v to 20v and the CDU will get 25.5v from the pre-voltage module. 
This means the CDU modules will operate at maximum output and if you have a delicate point motor, you can reduce the voltage from the pre-voltage module to get the action you want.
The new designs also have a front panel so you can mount 2 or more Capacitor Discharge Units on your console and have visual indication of the position of each point.
The CDU modules are designed to activate a solenoid point-motor, but if you have a manual point, Talking Electronics has a number of activation devices to operate the point. These come in the form of a small servo or a miniature servo that can be placed on the top of your layout or on the under-side.  
These servos can operate quickly or slowly, depending on the electronics module you purchase.
We also have linear-actuator versions for HO  and Z-scale layouts.
The whole range of requirements has been covered and you need to enquire before buying.
Contact:  Colin Mitchell before buying anything and discuss your layout and what you want to do.

[Here is the module to operate a KATO point motor.]

(see PART "A" to control a point with a motor)

The most common type of point motor is a solenoid that moves the rails from one position to the other.
It is also called  a TURN-OUT MOTOR:

This is s PL-11 Point Motor

Here is the inside of a PL-11 POINT MOTOR.
It must be activated for less than 1 second. 
It was activated for 4 seconds and it MELTED !!
The plastic core melted and bubbled through the coil
and the activating rod is FROZEN. That's what this article is all about.
If you add a CDU module to activate these
POINT MOTORS they will not get damaged.
 

PECO PL-10 or PL-34 POINT MOTOR
and the 3 wires needed to activate the two solenoids.
They are called PULL SOLENOIDS because the core is not a magnet.
(the core is called an ARMATURE)

The SOLENOID Point Motor consists of two coils of wire that alternately pull a metal rod into the middle of the solenoid and at the same time change the position of the point.
It is also called a double-acting solenoid because it will both PUSH and PULL.
The "core" or "plunger" is not a magnet and it will only PULL into a CORE. A core is a coil of wire and it is also called a solenoid. The solenoid will accept AC or DC and it can also be called an ELECTROMAGNET.
Because an electromagnet only "pulls," you need two coils to produce PUSH and PULL motion.  It is really PULL-PULL motion. The core only PULLS into a solenoid. (When the core is a magnet, you can get push-pull action with a single winding - that's how KATO points work)
But because the core in the solenoid point motor is classified as a SOFT IRON CORE,  you need 2 coils.
But the problem is the coils have very low resistance (mainly for cheapness). And this was a BIG mistake.
The resistance of the coil is about 4.5 ohms for some types and 11 ohms for others and when connected to 12v, the current will be nearly 1 to 3 amps. They must only be activated for less than half a second and if the 12v is connected for more than 10 seconds, the plastic case will start to smell and melt. In a few more seconds the solenoid will be completely damaged. The photo above was damaged in 4 seconds !!
To prevent this from occurring, you need an electronic module that delivers the current for a very short period of time (so that nothing gets warm).
This module is called a CAPACITOR DISCHARGE UNIT and it contains 2 or more 1,000u (or 2,200u or 4,700u) electrolytic capacitors that deliver the required energy.
These capacitors get charged slowly and when they are fully charged, you can press a switch and operate the point. It does not matter how long you hold the switch because the capacitors are drained in less than a second.

If you operate some of the solenoid point motors DIRECTLY from the 12v train supply or the 16v AC supply from the train transformer, some  will take more than 3 amps and produce more than 30 watts of heat.  This is equal to a small soldering iron and it will quickly melt the plastic case.
If you already have a PASSING SWITCH or a "spring return toggle switch" with a centre-off position, it will work perfectly, but if you have visitors working the control panel, they may leave the switch ON or change it very slowly and it can cause the solenoid to heat up.
To prevent any of these catastrophes, we have designed a number of CDU - CAPACITOR DISCHARGE UNITS to operate the points safely. These CDU modules are connected between the
PASSING SWITCH and the power supply to give you double protection.
So, it's: POWER SUPPLY, CDU MODULE, PASSING SWITCH, POINT.

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CHOICE NUMBER 8:   - see the new version (dual) for $18.00
The simplest and cheapest CAPACITOR DISCHARGE UNIT MkIIB is shown in the following image:  CDU MkIIBM  $14.50 plus $6.50  (BM means built and tested - made up)
Click  Here to order.

This is CDU MkIIBM  $14.50 plus $6.50   fully assembled

The screw terminals make it easy to fit to your layout.
Here are the connections to the Power Supply and point:

The two push switches in the wiring diagram above are also shown in the two following diagrams:

The PL-26 switch is called a PECO PASSING SWITCH because it only makes contact when the lever is just before or just after the top position. This means it is not making contact when fully left or fully right.
That's why it is just like two push-buttons. However it is very expensive and if you have a large layout, push buttons will be a lot cheaper.  However the Passing Switch does provide an indication of the position of the point.

Our CDU module fits between the Power Supply and the switch or switches to a SOLENOID POINT MOTOR. It is designed to deliver a short pulse of energy to the solenoid to change the position of the point. A Passing Switch will deliver a pulse of energy but if it gets stuck in the mid-position, our CDU will prevent the point motor "burning out."
If you do not include a Capacitor Discharge Unit, and you activate any type of switch for more than 10 seconds, the flow of current will heat up the solenoid and "burn it out." The CDU prevents this.
To go over it again, the CDU module can be used with a PECO PASSING SWITCH so that if the lever is moved too slowly or kept at "12 O'clock" too long, the CDU will only allow a short pulse of energy. And you have double protection !! 

There are two more switches that can be used to control a solenoid point.
The first looks like an ordinary TOGGLE SWITCH but it has special features.
It is a CENTRE-OFF TOGGLE SWITCH with SPRING RETURN.
The switch is "flicked" up or down and the lever returns to the centre position.
The point solenoid will only be activated for a very short period of time.

The other is a slide switch from ATLAS.   Slide the switch and then push it to make brief contact and this operates the solenoid for a very short period of time.

CAPACITOR DISCHARGE UNIT MkII - MODIFICATION
If your transformer does not supply 15vAC to 16vAC, you can increase the input voltage by adding a 100u to 220u electrolytic and 1N4004 diode to the input to create a voltage doubling arrangement. You can also change one or both the 1,000u electrolytics for 2,200u. This will deliver a much larger pulse to the point-motor and guarantee operation.

By adding one power diode and 220u electrolytic, the 16v AC input will be "doubled."  You need to ask for 35v electrolytics before you do this as the final voltage on them will be very close to 30v to 35v DC

If you ask for 35v electrolytics, you can supply the module with 35v from one or two plug packs.
You cannot get a single 35v plug pack but you can get 12v and 24v  or use 3 x 12v plug packs.
Here is the authors solution to providing 36v:

The image shows a 24v plug pack and 12v plug pack from Aliexpress

Output Voltage 12v   Current 1A   $2.30

Universal EU US Plug Switching Adapter AC 220V-240V To 5 V 12 V 24V Volt Power Supply DC 5V 12V 24V 1A 2A 3A 5A Power Adapter   Output Voltage 24v US Plug  Current 1A   $3.60

The adapter costs less than $1.00 (you need 2) and you need to order the type to suit your wall socket:

This gives you a 36v supply for less than $10.00  You just need to wire the outputs in series.
If one of the plug packs does not turn on when connected to a Capacitor Discharge Unit, it will be due to the high in-rush current being detected by the over-load section.
The answer is to add a 22 ohm or 27 ohm resistor in series. This will limit the current to 1 amp and the resistor will not get warm because the current reduces to a very small value within 5 seconds.

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CHOICE NUMBER 8A: 
This module replaces Choice Number 8 above.   It incorporates a pre-voltage module, a high-value of capacitance and two CDU units on the same Printed Circuit Board.

CDU MkIIB- dual  $18.00 plus $6.50 
Click  Here to order.

It has a front panel with four 2mm x 7.5mm self tapping screws and toggle switches and combines everything you have wanted for $18.00 - fully built and tested.   The input should be between 9v and 20v DC. (It can be AC up to 15v AC as the module has a protection diode on the input.)  The input current has been limited to 1amp (via 10R and 18R hidden resistors) for a very short period of time at the beginning of charging to prevent damage to the pre-voltage module.
The pre-voltage module produces 25.5v and you should not touch the screw on the 10-turn pot. If you increase the voltage 27v, the module fails and dies. If you want to DECREASE THE VOLTAGE - turn the screw CLOCKWISE.  Yes Clockwise - this is a CHINESE Module!! This will reduce the impact (activation) of the solenoids at each turnout on your layout but the 10-turn pot will not tell you the output voltage, so if you intend to increase the voltage after experimenting, you must put a multimeter on the output terminals of the pre-voltage module. The operation of the pot is not liner, so be careful.

The advantage of this module:  you can reduce the voltage for "N-gauge" and Z-gauge" points. 

OUR LATEST 4,700u CDU - with 2 CDU's on the board.
Comes built with toggle switches (just standard switches without rubber
grips) and a front panel with 4 screws. 

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CHOICE NUMBER 8B:    FOR 2-KATO POINTS
CDU MkIIB- dual  $18.00 plus $6.50 
Click  Here to order.
You can use the CDU MkIIB - dual to operate KATO points by connecting the two outer screw terminals together and taking to the KATO point.  The middle terminal is then taken to the KATO point. 
Here is a diagram to show how the voltage reverses from the CDU MKIIB - dual to allow this to work:

To operate a KATO point connect the two outer screw terminals together
and take to the KATO point.  The middle terminal is then taken to the KATO point.

CHOICE NUMBER 9:
If you want to use a toggle switch and 2 LEDs to show the position of a point, this POINT MOTOR CONTROLLER Module offers these features.
POINT MOTOR CONTROLLER  $13.50 plus $6.50
Click  Here to order.
You can also buy the module fully built and tested with toggle switch on an extension lead for $20.50 plus $6.50 postage.

Note: The common to the solenoid is fitted to the top screw terminal. 

The amount of energy delivered to the solenoid depends on the voltage delivered to the module. For 12v DC supply, the solenoid will work very delicately and will be suitable for small solenoids used in "Z-scale." Supplying 16v AC will deliver FOUR times more energy and will be suitable for larger scales and can operate 2 points.
The 100R resistor determines the amount of energy delivered. Increasing the 100R to 150R or 220R increasing the timing and thus the amount of energy delivered.

See the full article: HERE

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CHOICE NUMBER 10:

Talking Electronics has an In-line version that takes up less space on your console. This In-line CDU module has two LEDs that show the position of the point. It is fitted to your control panel and the LEDs show the position of a point. This very handy for a point that cannot be seen from the control area.
The module is very slim and more than one can be placed side-by-side to control all the points in your layout. Each module is connected directly to a point.
It is called CDU In-Line and costs $12.50  plus $6.50 postage. It is shown in the following image:
Click  Here to order.

The input voltage needs to be 12v to 16v AC or DC and you may need two adaptors in series to get this voltage. See Chapter 1 for the Plug Packs (or Choice Number 11).

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CHOICE NUMBER 11:
For layouts that need 2 or more points changed at the same time, a larger version is available with 2 x 4700u electro's:
It is CAPACITOR DISCHARGE UNIT MkIII  and is shown in the following image:
CDU MkIII fully built and tested $16.50 plus $6.50 postage
Click  Here to order.

CDU MkIII fully built and tested $16.50 plus $6.50 postage

Connecting CDU MkIII to 24v DC supply
 

Connecting CDU MkIII to 14v - 16v AC supply

You can use the "accessories" output of a train transformer if it is DC (14v DC to 24v DC) or if the accessories output is AC (14v AC to 18v AC). The module has been tested up to 20v AC but it is best to keep to 18v AC max.

If you use a 24v plug pack and 12v Plug pack, the voltage to the module will be too high and the zeners will get HOT.
Here is a solution from Steve Galka:

This principle applies to all CDU's. It does limit the "inrush current" and you can email me if you are adding a VOLTAGE DIVIDER to another project to see if any reduction in operation will occur.

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A larger CDU is also available from Talking Electronics, to change up to 8 points at the same time:
CHOICE NUMBER 12:

It is CDU 18,000u Flat version (built and tested) and costs $18.50  plus $6.50 postage. It is shown in the following image:
Click  Here to order.   Click  Here to order Module and switch module.

CDU Module 18,000 fully built and tested $18.50  plus $6.50 postage

 This Capacitor Discharge Unit is easy to connect to your layout with screw terminals.
You need two push switches to change the position of the point. The LED on the board shows the electrolytics are charged.
SPECIAL FEATURES
Input voltage can be AC or DC. But you MUST use the correct set of terminals. It did not work for one customer because he connected DC to the AC terminals. There is a 100u electrolytic on the AC terminals and "it will not let the DC in."  The 100u is for a voltage-doubling network at the side of the board as shown in the image above. 
Three sets of input terminals are provided.
8v to 12v AC
13v to 20v AC
12v to 30v DC
The project comes with instructions for connecting to a plug pack (wall wart) plus information to connect two plug packs (in series) to get the required voltage.
The CDU 18,000u has zener-diode regulation to prevent over-charging.

If you supply a DC voltage above 25v, this voltage is called "OVERHEAD." It is voltage that is not needed by the module and will be "lost" in the resistors. However it will allow the module to charge quicker as it will supply current right up to the time when the electros are 99% charged. And then they will charge to a full 100% very quickly. If you supply 32v, for example, the electros will charge to 26.5v and the remaining 5.5v (slightly less than this) will be dropped across the 330R combination of 1k resistors to allow a "bleed current" of 16mA to flow. This will also flow through the zeners but nothing will get hot.
However it will protect the electros from seeing a voltage of 32v as this will leak through the dielectric of the electros and they will heat up and explode.

A Switch Module can be fitted to this CDU to activate the solenoid point and also show the position of the point via two LEDs:

The SWITCH MODULE (shown in the images above) connects to 18,000u CDU for $7.00  extra.
This switch module shows the position of the point via two high bright LEDs and it controls (limits) the energy to a point to prevent the rails "bouncing back" due to too much energy being supplied.

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CHOICE NUMBER 13:
A slimline version of CDU 18,000u is available from Talking Electronics, to change up to 8 points at the same time:
It has the same capacity (4 x 4700u electrolytics - the same storage capacity as choice number 12) but only one input option: 15v AC. 

It is CDU 18,000u Slimline and costs $19.00  plus $6.50 postage. It is shown in the following image:
Click  Here to order.  Click  Here to order Module and switch module.

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CHOICE NUMBER 14:
A NEW version off CDU 18,000u Slimline MkII has both AC input and DC input and you can decide which input to use. The DC input can be 12v DC to 16v DC and the AC input can be 15v AC from a train transformer.
The circuit on the underside of the PC board DOUBLES the DC voltage and the chip has a maximum operating voltage of 18v. But we do not want to exceed 15.5v as the chip will be damaged if it sees more than 18v. The on-board zener regulator limits the voltage on the electro's to 25.5v  and 15.5v will deliver 25v, due to 5v losses in the circuitry. 
CDU 18,000u Slimline MkII costs $19.50  plus $6.50 postage. It is shown in the following image:
Click  Here to order.

The DC input voltage for CDU 18,000u Slimline MkII must be 16v MAXIMUM and each module comes with a VOLTAGE REDUCER module so you can adjust the voltage on the module to 15.5v

VOLTAGE REDUCER

The VOLTAGE REDUCER MODULE consists of a 3-terminal block and 4 power diodes and screws into the 3-terminal block on the module.
This is how the Voltage Reducer Module works:  Each diode reduces the incoming voltage by 0.75v, making a total of 3v.
When you get CDU 18,000u Slimline - MkII, check the voltage of your power supply (before touching the module) and make sure it is less than 18v. The voltage reducer module only works for voltages: 16v, 17v and 18v.
If it is 18v, connect the VOLTAGE REDUCER to CDU 18,000u Slimline - MkII as shown in the following image:

If the input voltage is 17v, you can remove one of the diodes by soldering a link across one of the   diodes (to short it out), as shown in the following image:

If  the input voltage is 16v you can remove 2 diodes and if it is 15v, you do not need the VOLTAGE REDUCER MODULE.

If you want to deliver 15.5v DC to CDU 18,000u Slimline - MkII with two plug packs, here is the circuit:

An easy way to get 15.5v for CDU 18,000u Slimline - MkII
 is with two plug packs - 5v and 12v.  
You can also use three 5v plug packs and you will find many of these
in your parts-bin from old mobile phones !!!!

A Switch Module can be fitted to this CDU to activate the solenoid point and also show the position of the point via two LEDs:

The SWITCH MODULE (shown in the images above) connects to 18,000u SLIMLINE CDU for $7.00  extra.
This switch module shows the position of the point via two high bright LEDs and it controls (limits) the energy to a point to prevent the rails "bouncing back" due to too much energy being supplied.

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CHOICE NUMBER 15:

We are constantly updating and improving and adding to our range of modules and this one combines three features at a LOWER COST -  amazing  !!

The name: Capacitor Discharge Unit with SPDT Switch - SLIM has been chosen to identify it from all the other CDU modules made by Talking Electronics. 
It combines a number of features with a clever circuit to allow a single 1,000u to be charged to 35v and produce sufficient energy to operate a point. It also has an on-board mini toggle switch and two indicator LEDs - this reduces your wiring.
The circuit also includes a voltage doubling arrangement for 12vAC to 15v AC - (from a train power supply) and two indicator LEDs to show the position of the point.
The mini toggle switch can be easily fitted to your console and small holes on each side of the switch used for the LEDs to shine through the console.
All these features are in this narrow PC board so that a row of these modules can be aligned on a panel to show the position of the points.
This module reduces your wiring considerably as only 3 wires are needed for each point and a common "bus" of positive and negative to the modules.  
 


A close-up of the switch, showing the leads soldered to the tabs on the switch

All the components fit on the PC board and the module comes with 2 x 1,000u electrolytics. The input can be 12vAC to 15vAC or 20vDC to 35vDC.

You can make a 12v 24v or 36v supply very cheaply by using 24v and 12v plug packs. These are available on eBay for less than $10.00 (combined) including postage.    
If you are making 36v, simply connect the leads as shown in the following diagram.
Some of these plug packs have a current detecting overload circuit and "shut-down" if the current is more than 1 amp (even for a millisecond).
To prevent this we add a 47 ohm resistor.
This only applies when you are using the plug packs for our CDU modules (like this project) as the high current is only required for less than a second and then falls to a very small value.   The resistor will not get warm when used in this particular application.  

Using an old Printer Power Supply
You can use a discarded Printer Power supply for many of the CDU modules.  Make sure the electros are 35v. I have highlighted the voltage and the current capability (625mA) of this printer supply and it is ideal. You cannot use it on any of the throttle modules as the current is not very high but it is ideal for a CDU module as the current requirement is less than 100mA to charge the electros.

There are lots of other power supplies from discarded electronic equipment and you just have check everything before you throw it out. 

CHOICE NUMBER 15A:

2 MODULES
This CDU now comes as 2-modules with a face place and 5 modules with a face plate.
This module requires 25v supply and to get the required energy to change a point, the electrolytics are now 4,700u.

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5 MODULES

CDU with output for 2-Aspect signals:

This is the latest design with in-built control for 2-Aspect signals.
The image shows the 3-wire connection

Here is 20 CDU's installed by Kevin Dawson

You can also fit 5 CDU modules to the Track Layout above

Here is 10 CDU's from Colin Sutterby, mounted in a temporary
box while setting up the main layout.
The LEDs on the track-layout show the position of the point
and you can over-lay your own to
reflect your layout.

The circuit for the activating part of the CDU module and the
outputs for the 2-Aspect signals. 
It needs the power-supply module for the CDU
to work for both Siding and Main
It will not work without the 4,700u power supply module

This module comes with a pre-voltage module to make things easy for you. You just need a supply of  9v to 20v DC and the pre-voltage module will output 25.5v to the CDU modules. 
Here is the second advantage. The output voltage of the pre-voltage module can be reduced by turning the screw on the 10-turn pot CLOCKWISE. (yes! Clockwise - the module is from China!! )
and this will reduce the energy to a delicate point motor.  Do not turn the screw anti-clockwise as this will output a very high voltage and damage EVERYTHING !

You can mount 2 or 5 modules "side-by-side" and use the face-plate shown in the photo below to connect them together and fit them to your console.
Here's what you need:
1 - faceplate   $2.00 for 2 modules    $3.50 for 5 modules
1 - power supply module  $5.50
1 - switch module $5.00
1 - switch module $5.00
1 - switch module $5.00
1 - switch module $5.00
1 - switch module $5.00
You can operate 5 points for a total of $34.00 and that is less than $7 per point.

The face-plate means there is no drilling needed and a simple cut-out in your console will allow the face plate to be added. 
A new face-plate with track ID has been introduced:
The 2-module face-plate costs $2.00
or 5-module face-plate $3.50

The circuit for the 5-Modules version has 2 x 4,700u electrolytics in the power supply section because the charging of the 2,200u (in the second part of the circuit shown above), when the switch is in the "MAIN" position, will take a lot of energy from the 4,700u in the power supply and the voltage across it will dip 50% (theoretically). When 5 modules are connected to the power supply, this will be passed to the other modules and affect the operation of the other points at a time when they should not be affected.
To prevent this we have used two 4,700u electrolytics in the power supply. The voltage will theoretically drop 30% but the other points are not affected. When 5 modules are connected, the 1,000u in each module will reduce the "dip" considerably.
One customer wanted to use a 2-leaded bi-polar LED. 
Here is the modification:

FITTING A BI-POLAR LED 
Use 2 x 4k7 resistors and note the lower resistor fits into the holes identified for a LED. A jumper wire is needed to complete the mod.

CHOICE NUMBER 16:

This CDU (Capacitor Discharge Unit) module has been designed with voltage-doubling components so you can use the 12v DC or 15v AC terminals of your train power supply. It also has voltage regulating to prevent over-charging the electrolytic and an indicator LED to show when the electrolytic is fully charged.
The 4,700u electrolytic is adequate for a single point and can be connected to two points at the  same time, if needed.
You just need two push-buttons (switches) and twin flex (wire) to activate your solenoid point  (point motor).  

The advantage of this module is the input voltage.
It can be 12v to 16v DC or up to 15v AC
and the circuitry will double the voltage

CHOICE NUMBER 17:
 

This project combines a number of features from three of the projects we have previously designed for Model Railway Hobbyists.  It is available as a kit or fully built and tested.
Now you can have 3 features in one module.
The first feature is the power supply. This module connects to your track and you don't have to provide 15v AC or a higher voltage to charge the electrolytics. The module has an on-board charging and voltage generating section that accepts almost any voltage and charges the electrolytics to a maximum of 27v.
The next feature is the variable voltage (or maximum voltage) for the electro's. You can reduce the voltage to as low as 13v for those solenoid points that do not need a large amount of energy for their activation.
The third feature is the reed switch inputs. This allows the module to be used automatically to control a solenoid point so the point gets changed correctly when the train approaches from the other direction.
And lastly, the kit comes with a TRACK-PICKOFF MkII connector that fits between the sleepers and connects to the rails with springy connectors.     

THE CIRCUIT
All the work is done with the microcontroller.
The charging of the electro's - the timing to activate the solenoid and the detection of the reed switches.
The rail voltage is passed to the project via a bridge and this allows AC, DC or DCC to be converted into DC and stored to a small extent in the first 100u. The 100u on the output of the 78L05 provides a small amount of reservoir for the micro and we are assuming the train will be moving most of the time to maintain supply for the micro.
The micro drives a BC 338 transistor with short pulses to allow current to flow into (through) the inductor and produce magnetic flux. When the transistor turns OFF, the magnetic field collapses and produces a very high voltage spike. This spike passes through the high-speed 4004 diode and into the 4,700u electros. The spike is really about 50v but the energy in the spike is converted into charging current and the electros would charge to more the 40v. But they will explode if the voltage rises above 30v so the voltage on the electros is monitored by the 100k resistor and 10k pot.
The PIC micro detects a HIGH when an input is 2.2v and the 10k pot can be adjusted produce a voltage from 13v to 27v.
The project takes a very small amount of energy from the track during the charging process and this will not be noticed when powering a train around the layout.
The indicator LEDs on pins 2 and 5 are output devices as GP2 and GP5 are constantly changed from input to output lines. They normally illuminate one of the LEDs, but every 100mS, the program converts the lines to input to detect if a reed switch has been activated.  
When they are input lines, we want them to have 0v on them and the 10k resistors across the LEDs provide this feature. Without the 10k resistors, the impedance of the LEDs is very high and the input lines can "float" and if a white LED is used as an indicator, this "float" voltage can be as high as 3.3v. The micro sees any voltage above 2.2v as a HIGH and the circuit would not work correctly.
If a reed switch is activated, the line will be HIGH and the program will respond accordingly.

SOLDERING THE KIT
Soldering these kits is simple if you have a bit of experience in soldering small components because all the parts are identified on the PC Board. You will need tweezers for the surface-mount components. We supply solder THAT IS NOT CHINESE SOLDER. Do not use Chinese solder as it does not contain the correct percentage of tin and lead and it does not "run" or melt or flow properly and does not produce a shiny joint. It did not work for me and I threw it in the trash. The frustration of trying to get a shiny joint was enormous.
The first things you add to the board are the 13 surface mount resistors. Add a small amount of solder to one land for each resistor and pick them up with tweezers with the numbers showing and solder one end with the solder that is already on the land. Then go around and solder the other ends by adding a small amount of solder to each resistor. Watch the solder "click" onto the resistor and it will look a little bit like a skateboard ramp. 
The rest of the components are through-hole and it does not matter if you start at one end of the board or with the small components first.
Every component is identified on the board and most of the parts have to be fitted around the correct way - so look at the legend on the board.
The LEDs must be soldered very quickly otherwise they will be damaged.
The mark of a well-designed PCB is being able to put it together with a handful of parts and no other reference.
And the mark of a well-designed circuit is 100% operation with every board. You cannot afford to be messing around, "adjusting" the component values and trying to work out why it does not work. 
That's why every value has a reason and a purpose. This can only be gained by working on hundreds of circuits and gaining the experience, knowledge and understanding. 
The circuits are provided with all the projects to give you this experience.
And to help you fix something, if it "blows up."

 The photo's above show the complete module (before all the leads are connected). The electro's will be bent over and laying flat above the top of the board on modules pre-built and posted through the mail as they are too tall to be posted when they are upright.
The mini trim pot can be adjusted from 13v to 27v so the electros hold the right amount of energy for the point you are using. This is the first module on the market to provide this adjustment as some points bounce too much if the voltage is too high.
 
POWER CONNECTOR - also called TRACK PICK-OFF
The power for this project can come from a power supply 9v to 15v AC or DC or DCC. In fact it can be ANYTHING !!
You can also connect the project to the track with a very small THIN PC board that fits between the sleepers. It is called Track Pick-Off MkII.  It has two springy clips that touch the inner parts of the rails and make electrical contact. .
The PC board comes with the two springy clips soldered in place and you need to remove the plastic from between two sleepers to allow the board to fit (as shown in the photo below). Twist the board into position and give the spring clip a twist with a pair of pliers so it pushes against the rail.

This track pick-off is called BETWEEN SLEEPERS
Cost $2.50

A close-up of the springy gold wires and the
fine screened lead

Alternatively, you can ask for Track Pick-off "using Rail Joiners." You will need to get to the track, remove the rail joiners that presently connect the rails, and fit the track jointers as shown in the following image:

This track pick-off is called "using Rail Joiners"
Cost  $2.60

CONCLUSION 
This is a very interesting project to convert a solenoid operated point into semi-automatic operation by adding the two reed switches so the train will set the point correctly when entering the point from the opposite direction.
The module shows the position of the point via a red and green LED and it's very easy to set-up with the Power Connector and extension switches.

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CHOICE NUMBER 18:
This module operates a SERVO very slowly. All the other modules operate the servo fairly quickly.

The original circuit used two 555 IC's. The new and improved circuit uses a microcontroller and 15 fewer components !!  That's why some of the components are no longer required.
The top terminal block on the left connects to a reed switch and this activates the servo slowly to change the position of the point to allow the train to come back into a point with the rails in the correct position. 
The other terminal block on the left connects to a switch on your control panel to activates the point manually so you can send the loco to the siding.
The top terminal block on the right connects to a reed switch to allow the train to come to a point with the rails in the correct position.  
The other terminal block connects to your control panel.
The module comes with a servo, extension lead for the servo, gold push-rod for servo, leads to your panel for the Main and Siding switches, 2 reed switches on 1200mm leads and two very strong rare-earth magnets: 10mm diameter x 1mm thick.
There are many ways to mount the servo and one customer asked about "N Scale code 55 track."  Here is the solution:

The shortest arm (supplied with the servo) can be cut with one hole remaining and the gold 0.7mm wire wound around the arm with plenty to fit into the lever on the point. Allow the 0.7mm wire to produce a "spring tension" to keep the point, in each direction, with a little bit of tension and this will allow the arm to rotate about 70 degrees. 

CHOICE NUMBER 19:
This module operates a SERVO very slowly. All the other modules operate the servo fairly quickly.

The SLOW MOTION SWITCH MACHINE costs $8.50 usd and comes with 2 metre of 3-core lead.
The CONTROL MODULE costs $22.00 usd and will operate one or two SLOW MOTION SWITCH MACHINES.
Shipping $7.50 usd for any number of Slow Motion Switch Machines.

This is the latest Slow Motion Switch Machine using digital control to the motor.
It is very small and measures only 31mm (1.25in).

It comes with 3 small screws for easy fitting to the underside of your layout.



You also need a control module containing 2 switches and microcontroller and power supply.

The module is fully assembled but the two switches are in a separate bag (with fine solder 3 screws and extension lead) as they are too tall to be shipped as a small packet from Australia.
You need to fit the two switches to the small front-panel and use the nuts to get the height so the LEDs fit through the holes.
The LEDs show the position of the point.

The switch MUST be fitted so the letters "C" "NO" and "NC" can be seen as per the image above. They will not work if fitted the wrong way around. These are special switches - push switches - and not toggle switches. Push the legs through the holes of the printed circuit board and before you solder the pins, try the operation of the module. When you know it operates correctly, solder the pins with the fine solder provided.
You can also get a version of SLOW MOTION SWITCH MACHINE for the topside of your layout - ask for details when ordering.
MOUNTING
The board is mounted on your control panel through a small rectangular hole with 2 mounting screws and the larger board sits behind the panel.

TURTLE - 2 POINTS CIRCUIT

All the work is done by the microcontroller.
Press the left push-button and the SLOW MOTION SWITCH MACHINE moves the point to the Main line. Push the switch again and the electronics makes the SLOW MOTION SWITCH MACHINE move the point to the Siding.
The second push-switch operates the other SLOW MOTION SWITCH MACHINE in the same way.

CHOICE NUMBER 21:
5 Point Controller for Servos
This module operates 1,2,3,4, or 5 servos very slowly.

The module (containing the electronics) costs $25.00 USD  (built and tested).

You can also get special slow-motion servos with 70 degree activation for $2.50 each and brackets for under your layout for $2.50 each. We also  have 2 metre extension leads for $2.00 extra.

SETTING-UP INSTRUCTIONS 
Connect the battery-snap (provided on the module) to 12v battery made up of say 8 AA cells.  This is just an initial test to make sure everything works and nothing gets too hot.
If the voltage is not high enough (from flat batteries), the LEDs will just flash.
Later you can connect the module to a 12v power supply.
The LEDs will illuminate and now you need to move each point motor in both directions so the LEDs on the board correspond to the position of the point.
Push the first switch for at least 0.5 seconds to allow the program to recognise the button.
Push it again. The point motor will reverse and the LED on the board will indicate the position of the point. Repeat with all the buttons.
You can’t just press the button quickly. You need to push it for 0.5 seconds to allow the program to detect the button.
Now you can extend each point motor with the extension leads provided.
You can get brackets to hold the point motor under the layout as shown in the image above.
Each time you turn on the module, you need to “synchronise” the point with the LEDs on the PC board by pressing each button to move the point in both directions. Wait for the servo to travel and STOP, before pressing the button again.

5 Point Controller for Servos: $25.00 USD
5 Slow-motion Servos  $12.50 USD
5  2metre extension leads   $10.00 USD
5 Brackets   $12.50 USD
Shipping:   $8.50 USD for all items

Buy  5 Point Controller for Servos $25.00usd plus $6.50usd post

CHOICE NUMBER 22:
5 POINT IDENTIFICATION  for Passing Switches
This module shows the position of 5 points via blue and orange LEDs on a faceplate that fits on your console.
If you have solenoid points that operate via PASSING SWITCHES or CENTRE-OFF TOGGLE SWITCHES or any other type of switch to activate the point for a very short period of time, this module can be connected to the 5 points and it will record the position of the point via a LATCHING RELAY.  These are MEMORY RELAYS with very short activation time and hold the information, even after the power is turned off and re-applied. The main module is connected to the face-plate with 7 wires (about 100mm long) so it can be screwed to your console.
The cost of the module, fully built and tested,  is $25.00 USD plus $8.50 USD shipping.  
You can get 2 metre leads to connect the point to the 3-screw terminals on the back of the main module for $2.00 per lead. Contact Colin Mitchell at Talking Electronics before buying any items. 
email Colin Mitchell:   talking@tpg.com.au

Buy  5 Point Identification for Passing Switches $25.00usd plus $8.50usd post

Here is the wiring to the 5-Point ID Module

This wiring shows the wiring of a DC layout to the 5-Point ID Module

 
This wiring shows the wiring of a DCC layout to the 5-Point ID Module

There are many ways to position the servo to allow the lever to control the point.
Placing the servo on its side will give better alignment, as shown below:

 

The image on the left is just an example to show the connection of the servo to the point. The servo can lay down to take up less room.

The servo rotates less than 70° and the gold wire is called the "linkage."
Any electro-mechanical device (motor, solenoid, servo) that operates a point is called a SWITCH MACHINE.
This project will only operate a normal (unconverted) SERVO as the circuit sends PWM signals to the servo to set its angle of rotation.
Talking Electronics has other projects that operate a motor and gearbox or a solenoid, but this project is specially designed to turn a manual point into an automatic point at the lowest cost.
The servo can be placed under your layout or in a plastic model such as a Platelayers Hut.

A platelayers hut can be used to hide the servo

There are many ways to connect the servo to the "switching lever" and here's one way that adjusts the movement of the arm on the servo to the travel needed by the switching lever.
It consists of a machine pin fitted to your layout and another machine pin fitted into it. This forms a  pivot and you can adjust the travel by providing the correct ratio for the gold wire before the pivot and after the pivot.
This arrangement also puts a small amount of tension on the rails, allowing the loco to pass if the point is not set correctly.  

The following images clearly show how the 3.7g SERVO is connected to the point via a LINKAGE:

The Machine pin in the centre of the linkage acts as a pivot and the "crank" in the lever is simply to align the activating arm to the slider on the track.
The gold wire is soldered to the pin so it does not change alignment.

THE SUPPLY
The supply for this project is 9v to 16v DC - but it is best to deliver a maximum of 12v. A voltage higher than 12v will make the 470R and BC338 slightly hotter.
You can deliver 12v AC as the diode and 100u will convert this to a DC voltage and the BC338 will smooth the output with the aid of the 6v2 zener diode.
Nothing in the circuit is susceptible to a small amount of ripple, so AC input is not a problem.
 
CONSTRUCTION
Assembly of the PC board is straightforward.
Fit the resistors first and then the electros, transistors, LEDs and diodes. The last parts to fit are the terminal blocks and switches.
You will need wiring to a 12v supply and you will need to connect the mini reed switches to the screened audio cable and add metal ends to the wires so they can be fitted to the screw terminals.
All these parts are included in the kit as well as 2 very strong super magnets. These are to be fitted under two locos.

Everything fits neatly on the board

All the components are clearly identified.
 

The two reed switches are carefully soldered to the
leads (very fine screened audio lead).
2 very strong rare-earth magnets
operate the reed switches at 2-3cm
(reed switches separately with 2 magnets cost $4.00)

SETTING-UP THE MAGNETS
The kit comes with 2 x 10mm super magnets about 1mm thick and to get the best magnetism from these magnets, place them on the bench about 5mm apart with one magnet having the North pole up and the other South pole up.
Don't worry yet.   When the opposite poles are up,  the reed switch will activate when it is lowered over the magnets at 10mm distance. If no reaction, flip one magnet over. The response will be dramatic. Now glue the magnets to the underside of a loco with N-pole up and the other S-pole up.
One up and one down creates a circular magnetic path through the "leaves" of the  reed switch and makes one leaf "N" at the tip and the other "S" at the tip and the two leaves click together.

FITTING the REED SWITCHES
Fit the two reed switches near the point but give the servo time to change the point before the loco gets to the point.
Connect the 12v supply and one of the LEDs will illuminate. It indicates the position of the point.
Press the other button and the point will change.  Drive the train through the point (from left to right) and when you return from the siding, the point will be ready for the train.

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CHOICE NUMBER 23A:

Automatic Point Switcher is available from:
Talking Electronics for $25.00 USD plus $6.50 usd shipping
Click HERE for details.

This is another Automatic Point Controller from Talking Electronics to cover slightly different requirements.
This module has different features and can be connected to a PECO point motor or any type of solenoid operated point. The module connects to a 12v AC or DC power supply or from an 8v to 20v AC or DC supply and has an adjustable converter on the module to deliver up to 25v DC to the point.
It can also be connected to a point that you control via CDU and it will not upset the operation of the CDU as this module has a high output impedance.
The typical problem is the return loop into a point or anywhere the train is entering the point from one of the arms. This module uses two reed switches to detects the loco and switch the point before the loco arrives.
 

The Automatic Point Switcher module sets the point for the loco
coming from one of the arms of "Y" and is needed for a layout
with an "end loop" where the track comes "back on itself."

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CHOICE NUMBER 24:
Automatic Loop
Look at the diagram and see the loop at the end of the line.

This module changes the point automatically and has 3 other features so you can design a layout with a loop.
This module is called: Throttle with CDU for LOOP.
You can use either a 3v micro motor and gearbox or a SERVO or a converted SERVO. You need to request the type of activator before buying as the modules are different.
You need a loop at the end of your layout and you can select either a SERVO or a converted SERVO to do the activation.
The throttle module has forward and reverse via the throttle knob and the track needs to be isolated from all other tracks as it is controlled by the PWM Throttle Module and the point is activated by the reed-switches.

The cost of the two modules will depend on the Point Motor and you can start by ordering the Automatic Loop via this link:
Click  Here to order.

CHOICE NUMBER 25:

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CHOICE NUMBER 26:
There is another COMPLETELY DIFFERENT type of Point Motor. It is used for a KATO point - to change the direction of the point.
Kato point motors operate completely differently and you need a different type of circuit to operate it.
It has a magnetic PUSH ROD. In other words, the plunger is MAGNETIC.  And this means the single solenoid is classified as DOUBLE ACTING. The single solenoid consists of a single winding and has just 2 wires and it operates by reversing the supply. Reversing the supply reverses the magnetic lines of force and this causes the plunger to be attracted or repelled. 
We have designed a module to operate up to 4 points.
You can get the module for 1 point, 2 points, 3 points, or 4 point.
Only the components for 1 point will be fitted for $10.00
The components for 2 points will be fitted for $15.00
The components for 3 points will be fitted for $20.00
And the components for 4 points will be fitted for $25.00
These points are operated separately and individually by toggle switches (4 switches).

This module controls 4 Kato points.
(It does not work with any other type of point
because KATO points work by REVERSING THE SUPPLY. All
other points work by alternately pulsing one or the
other coils to get two-way operation.)
 

The KATO solenoid

 
The KATO Point Motor Circuit.
The output section is is multiplied 4 times on the PC board.

The CIRCUIT
The circuit is very simple, but it is very clever. The electrolytic gets charged when the toggle switch is in the "down position" and the charging current flows through the solenoid from the supply to the electro.
This makes it change the point to the siding.
When the switch is in the "up position," the energy in the 2,000u electrolytic (this is 2 x 1,000u electrolytics) flows out and through the solenoid, from the lower wire to the wire connected to the supply. This is in the opposite direction to previously and is actually a VOLTAGE REVERSAL. And because the voltage is reversed, the current flows in the opposite direction.
This activates the solenoid in the opposite direction and the point changes to the main line.
This very simple circuit does TWO THINGS. It supplies a pulse of energy so the solenoid does not get hot and creates a voltage reversal so the solenoid activates in both directions.
The LEDs on the board show the position of the point.  
The power diode does two things. It allows AC to be connected and although only the positive cycles charge the 1,000u electrolytic, this is sufficient for the circuit to operate perfectly. The diode also prevents DC connection around the wrong way. DC around the wrong way will not illuminate the LEDs and the 2,000u will leak when voltage is applied in the wrong direction and not charge properly.
The 1,000u also reduces the impedance of the supply so the 2,000u can charge quickly and operate the point motor. 
Getting a Point Motor to activate depends on the voltage you deliver to the module.
Kato Point Motors are very delicate and do not require a lot of energy for their activation, and you should start with a 12v supply.
If you think the Point does not respond and "click" strongly, you can increase the supply by adding a 5v plug pack in series with the 12v plug pack to get 18v.
If you are operating 2, 3 or 4 points at the same time, you will need to increase the supply voltage, maybe up to 24v. The maximum voltage is 35v - 36v and this is obtained by connecting a 24v and 12v plug pack in series.
You can use AC from any source, but remember, any AC voltage will be converted to the voltage marked on the supply PLUS 50 PERCENT MORE!!!!
Only use the minimum voltage needed and this is found by decreasing the voltage until you do not get reliable operation, then increasing the voltage by an extra 3v to 6v.
None of these voltages will damage or over-heat the point motor, they will simply make the point "click" or "bang" loudly in each direction. 
 

Connecting the Kato points to the module
The module is supplied with the components soldered to the PC board,
but the toggle switches are supplied separately as they are too tall for the
posting box.  This allows you to solder them to the PC board
or fit them to your control panel.  The new PCB has 2 x 1,000u in the power supply

You can buy this module for 1, 2, 3 or 4 Point Motors and only the
necessary components will be fitted.
It now comes with pre-voltage module and a wired separate front panel for $45.00 plus $10.50 postage

Here are 8 points connected to 2 modules

Another layout using KATO modules

Modules are available for this project from Talking Electronics for $45.00 plus $10.50 postage for Australia .

Understanding KATO
Here is some helpful information about KATO

The KATO Throttle is called KATO POWER PACK

It requires a 15v AC "plug Pack" for the best performance, but the input can be as low as 12v DC.
With 12v DC, the output will be 12v = 0.7v - 0.7 - 1.5v = 9.1v due to the voltage drops across the components.
With 17v AC  the output voltage will be PULSED DC. In other words it will be a DC voltage that is rising from 0v to a maximum, 100 times a second. This is ideal for powering the motor of a loco.
It will rise to a maximum of 22v and even though it is not at this level at all times, the effect of 22v pulsed DC will be much more than 9.1v DC.
The "Power Pack" is claimed to be rated at 1.5 amps, but the diodes are 1 amp and because they are on long leads, they will get very hot when more than 700mA flows. This "Power Pack" is certainly less than a 1-amp controller.
The KATO "Power Pack"  come in 8 different models KATO 7078535 Fahrregler regelbar, Kato 22-012 Power Pack, Kato N - 20-004, Kato 22-018 and many more.
They all the have same 1 amp diodes but there are two different power transistors.
The 2SD560 is a Darlington transistor and the correct symbol is:

A Kato 22-018 Power Pack is available on eBay for $40.00 shipped and you will need an AC plug pack

The KATO 12v AC plug pack costs $25.00 to $40.00 on eBay BUT is for 100v AC and is not much use in the rest of the world. The advertisers don't tell you it's for 100v AC. There is NO 240v version.

What you need is a transformer as shown above. It converts 240v AC to 12v (or 15v) at about 1 amp.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1697253744.html? These cost about $20.00 (shipped) by Aliexpress.

You can now see the difficulty in using the KATO POWER PACK.

Now we come to adding a KATO TURNOUT CONTROL SWITCH. The photo below shows 5 switches added to a KATO Power Pack.

These switches have two studs on each side and they click into the studs on the right-hand-side of the Power Pack. The two terminals called 0v and 12v on the circuit above are the studs and are not 12v (as explained above) but possibly about 14v pulsed DC. 

The KATO 24-840 Turnout Control Switch (shown above) is actually a PASSING SWITCH and only makes contact when the lever is a little-bit down from the top and a little bit up from the bottom. These switches cost about $8.00 on eBay.
Here is the equivalent of how the switch works.  It is equal to a change-over switch (to reverse the polarity) and a "touch switch" to deliver a pulse:

If you don't have a KATO POWER PACK, you can buy a Kato 24-829 Accessory Adapter. It is also called Kato 24-842 DC Converter. It contains 4 diodes and converts an AC voltage to PULSED DC. The Passing Switches will then send the pulsing DC "around one way" to the point via a pulse or "around the other way" via a pulse. Here is a Kato 24-829 Accessory Adapter clicked onto two KATO 24-840 Turnout Control Switches.

You can see the DC Converter has click fittings on both sides

If you have 15v AC from a "TRAIN TRANSFORMER," you can connect the 15v to the two wires coming from the back of the Kato 24-829 Accessory Adapter.   If you have 12v DC, you can connect to the two wires (around either way) but the output will be 10.5v DC. This will be sufficient to pulse the KATO POINT MOTORS (solenoids). 

Talking Electronics has designed a number of modules to replace KATO modules.

CHOICE NUMBER 27:
This module controls 1 Motor/gearbox (see Choice Number 20).

POINT  CONTROLLER for 1 Motor/gearbox

Point Controller using Motor/Gearbox $18.00

Convert your manual point into a remote point with this motor/gearbox activator using the push-rod
supplied.
The module has a front panel showing the position of the point and operates from a 12v supply.
The on-board mini trim pot adjusts the "throw" of the push rod to suit mounting on your layout or under the layout.
A bracket for mounting the gearbox under your layout is also available.
This is the cheapest way to convert points to remote operation.

Buy  Point Controller using Motor/Gearbox $18.00 plus $8.50 post

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CHOICE NUMBER 28:
(same as Choice Number 10)

This is the latest design from Talking Electronics to convert 2 manual points to remotely operated points.
Click HERE to buy a module.  $25.00 usd plus $12.00 usd shipping
 The project comes complete and fully wired with 2 converted servos on two metres of twin lead.
 The front panel shows the position of each point via LEDs and the toggle switches select the position of each point.
The position of the point is shown by 2 LEDs on the module with an outline showing the track with siding. This makes it easy to see the position of the point. 
The converted servos only travel 90 degrees or less and you can adjust the travel by altering the output voltage of the Automatic pre-voltage module. This module needs a supply from 9v to 20v and it outputs a constant voltage, set by the 10-turn pot on the module.
 To reduce the voltage, turn the screw a very small amount clockwise. You can measure the output voltage with a meter as the adjustment is very sensitive.
 The converted servos are called a MOTOR AND GEARBOX and come with a spring-steel "push-rods" that also acts as a lever when you are fitting (the motor and gearbox) under your layout. The holes in the "arm" allow different "throws" to be achieved for both top and under your layout.
 Holders for the motor are available from Talking Electronics for $2.50 each and come with screws to hold the servo and for mounting the bracket.
 Use the tiny screws provided to hold the face-plate in place and the small screws to hold the arm onto the output shaft of the gearbox.
 You can input AC or DC to the pre-voltage module and the current-limiting resistors are needed to prevent the supply module being overloaded and the other limiting resistors allow the motor to be fed for a longer period of time to achieve the desired rotation.
This is the only module on the market with these features.

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CHOICE NUMBER 29:

Point Controller for 4 Motor/Gearbox $45.00usd plus $12.50 usd shipping
 ($68.00aud plus $10.50 postage)

This module converts 4 manual points to remotely operated points.
Click HERE to buy a module.  $45.00 usd plus $12.50 usd shipping
 The project comes complete and fully wired with 4 converted servos on two metres of twin lead.
 The front panel shows the position of each point via LEDs and the toggle switches select the position of each point.
The position of the point is shown by 2 LEDs on the module with an outline showing the track with siding. This makes it easy to see the position of the point. 
The converted servos only travel 90 degrees or less and you can adjust the travel by altering the output voltage of the Automatic pre-voltage module. This module needs a supply from 9v to 20v and it outputs a constant voltage, set by the 10-turn pot on the module.
 To reduce the voltage, turn the screw a very small amount clockwise. You can measure the output voltage with a meter as the adjustment is very sensitive.
Holders for the motor are available from Talking Electronics for $2.50 each and come with screws to hold the servo and for mounting the bracket.
 Use the tiny screws provided to hold the face-plate in place and the small screws to hold the arm onto the output shaft of the gearbox.

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4-POINT CONTROLLER FOR KATO POINTS
Modules are available  for $25.00 plus $6.50 postage, built and tested for 4 points.
This is cheaper than 4 KATO 24-840 Turnout Control Switches.
You can use the 15v DC plug Pack from the Throttle with PWM module shown above.
You don't need the Kato 24-829 Accessory Adapter

  KATO DISTRIBUTION BOARD $18.00 plus $4.50 postage  Buy Here

This module will allow you to illuminate all your LEDs.
There are 4 separate brightness controls. Two controls have shafts that can be easily adjusted and two controls are via mini trim pots.
The Distribution Board comes fully built and has sample LEDs to show the brightness.
6 flying leads can be fitted into the JST 2mm sockets and 12 sets of LEDs can be fitted into the screw terminals.
The end of the module has 12 sets of female machine pins and you can insert 0.5mm wire into them.  
The input voltage can be 9v AC or DC up to more than 20v as the 7805 regulator delivers 5v to all the LEDs. As you add more LEDs, the regulator might get warm and you can add a heatsink if you cannot hold it in your fingers.   
These modules are very popular as they solve the problem of illuminating stations, roads and scenes with the appropriate level of brightness. You can use any colour LEDs as each section is individually protected with a current-limiting resistor. $18.00 plus $4.50 postage  Buy Here

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FREE THINGS !!!
Some of the modules and power supplies come with free wire and switches and terminal blocks to make connection easy.
Hook-up wire and stranded wire is very expensive by the metre and the length we supply will get out out of trouble.
The spring-terminals connector block are very cleverly designed. But you have to be an Einstein to work out where to put the wire.
When you push the lever (button) on the top, the metal spring produces a gap just below the button and when released, the spring digs into the wire and you cannot remove it. You will get some of these FREE when you buy the modules. The wire will be different colours and different thickness.

Here is another clear picture of how to fit the wires
into the terminal block.
The wires go above the metal spring and just below the "push-button."
When you push the lever on the top of the terminal block, the spring is depressed and a it creates a space for the wire. Releasing the lever grips the wire very tightly by the edge (end) of the flat spring.








Let's look at the 20 choices and describe the differences.
You will see some choices turn a manual point into a remotely-operated point and some prevent a solenoid point: "burning out."
These choices are classified as the BASIC DESIGNS.
They are the simplest designs to do the simplest job.

Later, we will explain modules that change the point slowly and modules that automatically change the point when the loco approaches and modules that show the position of the point on your control panel. 
For a simple layout and those who are just starting to improve their layout, the choices above will provide the answer to remotely control a point and also show its position on your control panel. 
Read the features of each module and make sure you have the required voltage available. You can get almost any voltage (and current) from one or two PLUG PACKS. These provide safety and security and prevent you being able to touch the 110v or 240v MAINS.
Under NO circumstances should you make your own POWER SUPPLY with soldered wiring and leads around your control panel carrying MAINS VOLTAGES. One day a young visitor may come in and be looking and feeling around your wiring and touch something LIVE !!!

ACTIVATING A POINT
This discussion involves up-dating a manual point to an automatic point or motor-controlled point.
It can also be called:
Moving a point, changing a point, activating a turn-out or controlling a point.
All the modules to do this are on this page and we are going to give you a list of the different modules and what they do.
If you have solenoid activated points, this discussion is not for you.  We have separate modules to activate solenoid points for PECO points and KATO points. See the index above for CDU Modules.
If you have DCC, (DIGITAL CONTROL) we have modules that connect to the track and are activated from the track signals.
If you have DC control of your locos, we have slow activating servos requiring control lines from your console to each point. Your console will have LEDs to show the position of the point.
We also have a servo that connects to the track to leach energy from the track to charge a battery that controls a servo. The module is contained in a HUT and is activated by an IR remote control (from an old VCR) and you can walk around your layout and activate the points.  The Module is called IR Point Controller.
 

COMPUTER CONTROLLED POINTS
COMPUTER INTERFACE MODULE with OPTO ISOLATOR and FRONT PANEL $45.00 usd plus $11.00 usd shipping.   Buy Here
You have a computer with 6 spare outputs and you want to control 3 points.
The computer has 0v (low) to 5v (high) output and a turn-out requires a voltage as high as 25v . You do not want to get this high voltage near your computer.
The answer is our COMPUTER INTERFACE MODULE with OPTO ISOLATOR.
This set of modules does 3 things.
It takes 6 lines from your computer to operate 6 opto isolators and the output from each OPTO ISOLATOR delivers a signal to the COMPUTER INTERFACE MODULE.
The COMPUTER INTERFACE MODULE has a 26v circuit to operate solenoid points and a memory circuit to control LEDs to show the position of the point.
All you need to do is program your computer program to deliver a pulse of any duration from each output and the first output will change the point to MAIN and the second output will change the point to SIDING.
The COMPUTER INTERFACE MODULE and OPTO ISOLATOR. modules require an input voltage 9v to 15v and the COMPUTER INTERFACE MODULE has an inbuilt automatic pre-voltage power supply to convert the 9v -15v to 26v.

The image above shows 6 outputs from your computer plus an earth wire.
The red line shows the isolation so no voltage from your computer is
passed to the module or the turn-outs (points).
The COMPUTER INTERFACE MODULE is a CDU (capacitor Discharge Unit)
The front panel shows the position of the point and the module contains memory to hold the
position of the point on the LEDs.
Output 1 of your computer activates the first point to the MAIN LINE.
Output 2 of your computer activates the first point to the SIDING.
Output 3 of your computer activates the second point to the MAIN LINE.
Output 4 of your computer activates the second point to the SIDING etc.

WIRING A POINT MOTOR
Point Motors take a high current when they are operated for the very short time they are intended to work.
Most point Motors have a coil resistance of about 3.8 ohms and when operated on a supply of 12v, this will allow 3 amps to flow.
Normally, wiring for 3 amp will require medium duty hook-up wire because the current will be flowing for a long period of time and thick wire prevents it getting hot. But with a solenoid-type Point Motor, it is only activated for less than a second.
This means thin hook-up wire is perfectly suitable.
3 metres of thin hook-up wire will have a resistance of about 1 ohm and if 3 amps flows, the voltage drop across the wire will be 3 volts.
But most Capacitor Discharge Units are charged to a voltage higher than 12v and can be 24v.
If we take 24v, the current will be 5 amps and the voltage drop will be 5v.
This gives the solenoid 19v.
The Capacitor Discharge Unit is designed to give 24v at the beginning of the pulse and gradually drop to almost zero after less than 1 second.
This give the solenoid Point Motor an initial kick to start moving and then the current gradually reduces so the "end clunk" is not so strong.
This means the wiring to the Point Motor can be almost any thickness as it has very little effect on the operation of the solenoid.

Talking Electronics has produced a number of different TRAIN THROTTLES.
These need either AC or DC input and produce 0v to 12v DC output.
If you have an AC supply such as: 10v AC to 12v AC, the Throttle Circuit below will produce an output of 0v to 12v DC - that is what it is designed to do.
If you have a 12v DC supply, the voltage-drops across the input power diodes and the control circuitry, will reduce the output to about 10v DC. 
This means you need an input voltage of 14v DC, to get 12v out, and this will require 2 adaptors in series or a set of 4 Li-ion cells.
The POWER SUPPLY project described above uses 4 Li-ion cells to provide a voltage of about 14.2v DC to 14.8v DC and is adjustable. It can be used as a TRAIN THROTTLE.

Most locos take about 300mA to 500mA and need a voltage of about 12v for full speed.
A 1Amp power supply will just be capable of operating two loco's.  

There are two types of TRAIN THROTTLE:
TypeA produces an output 0v to 12v DC and you need a reversing switch to reverse the train.
TypeB has a control with 0v in centre-position and "left" reverses the train at a gradual increase and "right" drives the train forward at an increasing velocity. No change-over switch needed.
This type of Train Throttle can be PWM and provides pulses of energy. It "kicks" the motor in bursts of about 600Hz and allows it to start the train very slowly. The "kicks" are very rapid and sometimes you can hear the "buzz" from the motor.
These circuits require an input voltage of 14v DC, so the full 12v DC can be delivered to the motor (as up to 2v DC is lost in the circuitry).

Here is a circuit and photo for typeA and the wiring for the reversing switch:

 Two Amp Power Supply circuit diagram. It is also called 2-amp THROTTLE


The completed project, showing the placement of the parts
The input voltage can be AC or DC. 
The DC voltage needs to be at least 16v6 to get 12v DC out. If you supply 17v to 20v DC, nothing will be damaged.  Just the 470R resistor will get slightly hotter when the input voltage is above 18v.

The 2-Amp POWER SUPPLY project is HERE
Kits come with 0-2 Amp meter to show the current. The ammeter is not a square meter as shown above but a side-meter as shown in the POWER SUPPLY project.  But it is FREE, so don't complain. 
$12.50 USD plus $6.50 USD postage.
Click  Here to order.

You will need a double-pole double-throw toggle switch to reverse the train. Ask for it.  $2.50 extra.

Connecting a reversing switch

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TRAIN THROTTLE No2.  (kit:   $18.00 with leads) Click  Here to order.
See the project: HERE
This circuit connects an AC transformer (or a DC supply) to a track to provide a voltage from 0v to max voltage (depending on the voltage of the transformer). 
The transformer can be AC or DC and any voltage from 12v to 18v.
The throttle handle connects to the 1k pot.
The diode on the output protects the transistors from reverse polarity (if  another controller is also connected to the rails).
The circuit is limited to about 1amp due to the 1N4004 diodes.

Here are two controllers that may be available from Model Railway suppliers and hobby shops. They are expensive but look really nice.
In this article we are showing you everything because some hobbyists want to build it themselves and others want to buy a ready-made item.

Transformer with 12v AC output and 18v AC

An impressive throttle can be built by using the following circuit and the THROTTLE PC Board in the kit (the lever handle shown above is not available).

 
                        Train Throttle Circuit 

The 8 power diodes are now replaced by 4 x 1N5404

AC plug packs are very difficult to buy, but 12v 1-amp DC or 2-amp DC can be
purchased at very low cost.
You can increase the output by 1.5v if you connect the positive and negative leads of the DC plug pack to the following points on the PC:

The layout of the PC Board.
You can connect the plug pack directly to the points shown
on the diagram above. You do not have to remove the diodes.

Wiring the pot, power input wires and reversing switch to the PC board

The control knob for the Throttle kit

The $2.50 plug Pack above was purchased as 12v @ 1 amp.  It was easily opened-up via a screw and clip, to reveal the PC board shown below.
The output voltage is determined by the zener diode at the front of the board. The 12v zener was replaced with 15v and now the output is 15v DC. I would limit the current to 800mA, but a 15v supply can be connected to many of the throttle circuits to give 0v to 13v DC output. 

The new 15v zener converts this power adapter to 15v output.

You can also use a white LED in series with the
12v zener diode to get 15v output. Note the cathode of the zener is connected
to the cathode of the LED and the 1k current-limiting resistor is
linked with a jumper.

This gives you a very low cost throttle.

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THROTTLE WITH PWM   Kit: $28.50 plus $6.50 postage. 
Click HERE to buy a kit.
Built and Tested: $35.00 plus $6.50 postage. Click HERE to buy a module. 
This is our latest design with forward and reverse via the yellow CONTROL POT. This project does not need a reversing switch as the pot provides zero speed when at 12 O'clock and reverse when turned to the left and forward when turned to the right. The output is Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) to give the loco smooth starting.
By this we mean the motor gets pulses from the throttle that allow it to start very slowly.
The module is capable of delivering 3 amps (due to the thickness of the tracks) and the power diodes are 5 amp. Additional heatsink fins will be needed for currents above 2 amp. But we suggest a 1-amp supply for most loco's.
The 4 FETs on the output bridge are capable of handing more than 10 amp and the trackwork on the board can be modified to handle 5 amps by soldering tinned copper wire along the tracks identified with additional solder pads.  This means the controller can be used for garden layouts where the loco will draw 5 amps. If you want to control more than 5 amps, you will need to connect the supply directly to the MOSFETs in the bridge and by-pass the 5 amp diodes.
The switch at the right is the on-off switch. The two LEDs on the board indicate forward and reverse, in case you cannot see the loco on a large layout.

All the digital signals are controlled (and generated) by the microcontroller and the pot determines the timing of the waveform and the activation of the H-bridge.
The two lower MOSFETs turn ON or OFF to take one or other of the output leads to 0v.  At the same time the top, opposite, MOSFET is switched ON and OFF at a fairly low frequency (about 600Hz) to provide pulses to the motor.
The ON-time is increased, compared to the OFF-time to increase the speed of the loco.
The THROTTLE WITH PWM module comes with connectors that are fitted in place of rail joiners to deliver the voltage from the throttle to the track.

NEW VERSION
This version was requested by a customer. He wanted the control facing the front:

The cost is the same for either module but you must specify which version you want. The switch and knob are not attached when posted as the module must be less than 2cm high for posting in the box we use.
Both modules come with the TRACK PICK-OFF (shown below) to deliver the output of the module to your layout.
 

Connect a plug pack and the throttle project is ready. 

This type gives better current capability.

You can request the following type if you do not want to use the rail joiners:

It will just pass 1 amp.

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LATEST VERSION 

THROTTLE WITH PWM - simple version
This version is cheaper and has improvements.
The throttle knob and the reversing switch comes out the front so you can fit the module to your console.  The module will pass about 2 amp as the two 1N4004 protection diodes are in parallel. The throttle goes down to zero due to the clever circuitry with the 555 IC.
It is also cheaper.
Cost of fully built and tested module is $15.00USD plus $8.50 USD shipping and includes the knob.
Price $22.00 AUD and $6.50 AUD postage
Click HERE to buy a module

THROTTLE WITH PWM and CURRENT LIMITING
The throttle above can also be bought with CURRENT LIMITING for $2.00 extra. The pot on the module is rotated clockwise to increase the current to a maximum of 1.5 amp.  When it is rotated anti-clockwise the current is reduced to less than 100mA.
It works like this:  Suppose you have a 12v supply that is capable of delivering 10 amps. If a short-circuit occurs on your layout, the throttle module above will pass a high current and the diodes will burn out.
With this module, the current will be limited to 1.5amp and nothing will be damaged.
This module will also allow you to test new track for shorts at points or other new sections of track. Simply reduce the maximum current and you will be able to drive the loco and if a short-circuit occurs, the maximum current will be limited to about 300milliAmp or so.
Cost of fully built and tested module is $17.00USD plus $8.50 USD shipping and includes the knob.
Price $25.00 AUD and $6.50 AUD postage
Click HERE to buy a module

UPGRADE YOUR CONTROLLER
The following images of controller are called DC CONTROLLERS. They increase and decrease the DC voltage and most have a reversing switch. There is nothing wrong with these controllers, but if you want to start the train very slowly, and have a controller-knob that has both forward and reverse, THROTTLE WITH PWM is the upgrade.
If you have one of the controllers shown below or a similar type that has a 0-100 scale AND a reversing switch, you can connect its output to the input of THROTTLE WITH PWM and get the new features.

HERE'S WHAT TO DO
Connect your throttle to the mains and turn the knob or lever to maximum.
Measure the voltage coming out of the throttle and make sure you identify the positive lead.
Now turn it off and connect the positive lead to the "+" DC screw terminal on THROTTLE WITH PWM module.
Now connect the other lead to the "-" DC terminal on THROTTLE WITH PWM module.
Put your throttle under your layout, making sure you do not touch the handle or the reversing switch.
Now connect your track to the two screw terminals marked "to track" on the THROTTLE WITH PWM module.
The THROTTLE WITH PWM module will use your throttle as a power supply and deliver PWM to your layout via the forward/reverse knob on THROTTLE WITH PWM.

The above 7 controllers are suitable for adding to THROTTLE WITH PWM module

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Some of the following controllers deliver just 7v and some are up to 16v AC output and/or 16v DC output. They all have forward/reverse on the control handle so the only improvement you will get by connecting to the THROTTLE WITH PWM module above is PWM. PWM will allow your train to start very slowly as the pulses overcome some of the friction by pulsing the motor with strong bursts and this gets the train moving.
Any controller with forward/reverse on the handle will require AC input.

Here is the wiring from your controller to THROTTLE WITH PWM module
to provide PWM and forward/reverse via yellow control knob.
The module also comes with track connector as shown above.
When everything is connected, the voltage to the track will be
slightly less than the output voltage of the Athearn controller,
due to the voltage drop across the diodes on the PWM module.

The Transformer
You can find suitable transformers in the oddest of places. Here is a 12v,  4-amp transformer from a 50 watt down-light. The light was replaced with a 10 watt LED light and it produced 3 times more light !!
The 50 watt transformer makes an ideal supply for a throttle and at 4 amps, it has enough current for other locos too.
The 12v2 AC produces 18v DC after rectification minus 2v to 3v drop across the diodes in the bridge.
The circuitry in the throttle drops another 2v and the output was measured as 13.5v DC.
All our down-lights were replaced with 5watt or 10 watt LED lights and the rooms are much brighter, with a whiter light and the wattage is less than 25% than before.  Now we have 6 transformers.
Transformers like this can be found in all sorts of equipment and they are ideal for the throttles we have described. You just have to look for them.

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STATION STOP  
This module has 2 features.
It is a normal throttle controller with a reversing switch for forward/reverse.
Plus it has a STATION STOP feature
Built and Tested: $38.00 usd plus $8.50 usd postage
Click HERE to buy a module. 

MODE 1

TO USE AS A NORMAL THROTTLE
You do not have to cut any rails
1. Flick the BYPASS slide switch to "ON"
2. Connect the output of the STATION STOP module to your layout via a TRACK CONNECTOR. The TRACK CONNECTOR is fitted between the rails at any location by pushing the long connected against the inside of a rail and this will allow the other connector to touch the other rail.
3. Connect the input of the STATION STOP module to 12v DC (up to 15v DC).
4. Rotate the Throttle knob to provide speed from zero to maximum. Reduce speed to zero before reversing the train.

MODE 2

To set up STATION STOP
1. Connect the output of the STATION STOP module to your layout via a TRACK CONNECTOR.
2.Connect the STATION STOP Module to a 12v power supply.
3. Fit the IR detectors before and after the station so the train has plenty of time to gradually slow down and stop.
4. Start testing the module with the bypass switch "ON" and run the train slowly between the station.
This proves the module is working. Select medium speed.

5. Now flick the BYPASS switch "OFF" and run your train around the circuit and enter the station section at the speed you have chosen for the testing.
The train will enter the station section and gradually slow down automatically and stop at the station for 5 or 10 seconds. It will then start slowly and continue around your layout at your chosen speed.

Switch the "direction switch" (DPDT toggle switch) on the STATION STOP module for the train to enter the station from the other direction. The station needs to be in the centre of the IR detectors.

NOTES:
The output of the module is PWM. This allows the train to start very slowly.
A DPDT toggle switch on the STATION STOP module allows the train to by-pass this feature and you have a normal throttle module.
You can set-up your layout in a large loop and the train will automatically travel the loop and stop at the station each time.

HOW TO USE IT

When the STATION STOP module is set-up, you will use your normal throttle to run a train around your layout and when it reaches an IR detector the Station Stop module will detect the presence of the loco and this will start the program in the micro to slow the train and stop at the station for 5 or 10 seconds then gradually increase speed until it passes over the second gap. Your normal throttle will then take over for the remainder of the circuit.    

Cost of STATION STOP module $38.00 usd plus $8.50 usd postage

The output of the servo moves about 70 degrees as this will give the greatest "throw." You can select the hole on the arm to produce the travel you want.
The repeat feature allows you to produce models with "pumping action" or "see-saw" action as a servo is smaller and cheaper than buying a motor and gearbox.

You can use it to control a point or a set of boom gates as well as swing-gates or a drawbridge or crane or a "see-saw" action.  It has so much potential. You can get a smaller servo or a linear-movement servo for very tight spaces, but there is nothing cheaper than the standard 9G servo.

Here is a set of gates controlled by 4 servos.
https://youtu.be/bc6jyj93Ee4
Our module can be used to control this:

All the functions are in the PIC12F629 microcontroller

The module comes with 2 Test Switches and extension lead for servo, plus the servo and 0.6mm and 0.7mm push rods. You just need a 8v to 12v supply.  .

All the complex electronics in the project above can be reduced by using our module and a servo.
 

DCC stands for Digital Command Control and basically means you can control more than one train on the same track.
It is expensive to add this feature to your layout as you need a COMMAND CONTROLLER and a loco that has a DIGITAL DECODER fitted inside the loco. A command controller is about $200 and a loco with a Digital Decoder fitted is about $200 and you need two locos to take advantage of this system.
I have used a COMMAND CONTROLLER "NCE POWER CAB" and is is very slow and messy to access one loco and then change to another loco as it is designed for a single person to control two trains.
But what if you have two "drivers?"   . . . . two hobbyists who want to drive the two trains at the same time?
All the controllers on the market do not allow this feature.
But Talking Electronics has produced a very simple Dual DCC Controller for two DCC Decoders for locos (that do not have a decoder). And you can fit a decoder to these locos for $18.00 + $18.00. These decoders will deliver between 700mA and 1 amp and we have designed a number of "add-on" modules (for those who have a DCC layout) to control points and other items.

All "DCC Fitted" locos have a decoder fitted and are manufactured with the decoder set to address 3. If you buy a second DCC loco, get the Model Railway shop to set the address to 5 so you can use both locos on the same track.
You will need a Command Controller such as "NCE POWER CAB"
A "DCC Ready" loco will not have a decoder fitted and contains just a very small 8-pin socket for a decoder.
Most of the decoders on the market will deliver 500mA and cost $50 and if you buy 2 "DCC  Ready" locos, two 500mA decoders and an "NCE POWER CAB" controller, you have a system.  You can then buy "add-ons" to control your points, from the list below.
Do not buy HORNBY as it uses a completely different digital system. The Hornby Select controller we bought did not access any of the decoders we manufacture.

HERE'S WHERE TO START

All our modules work with NCE Power CAB and all controllers that conform to NMRA signals and codes.
None of our modules work with Hornby DCC Controllers.

If you have a NCE Power CAB Controller (or equivalent controller using NMRA codes) you can convert a DC loco into a DCC loco:
The cheapest "add-on" is a DCC decoder for $18.00


If you DO NOT have a NCE Power CAB Controller
The next cheapest "add-on" is a DUAL DCC controller to operate two DCC locos at the same time.  It has 2 throttle controls for $43.00.  You will need two DCC decoders (above) to complete your system.

   DUAL DCC CONTROLLER

DCC CONTROLLER +5
The next cheapest "add-on" is our DUAL DCC CONTROLLER +5 to operate two DCC locos plus 5 other items such points. It costs $53.00 and it has 5 buttons to operate up to 5 DCC points and the module shows the position of the point via LEDs, plus images on the module of the tracks.

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Operating a Point - Controlling a Point - a Turn-Out
If you have a Peco Point or other point using a solenoid, you can operate this Turn-Out with your NCE Power CAB Controller by fitting our DCC Capacitor Discharge Unit.

It is called: DCC POINT CHANGER for a SOLENOID POINT (with CDU) and will operate a Peco or other solenoid point:  
Click HERE to order DCC Point Changer with CDU 
The cost is:$25.00 USD plus $8.50 usd post.
It is connected to the track via a Track Pick-Off connector and the output connects to the point with 3-core lead.

To access the module, select address 40 and press button "1"  Repeat this to change the point to the "siding" as button "1" toggles the point.





If you have a manual point, you can convert it to operate via a servo with the following module:


The servo has only 70° rotation and you control the servo with address 40 and button "1" will turn the servo clockwise and the anticlockwise when you address it the second time.
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo
Buy DCC Point Changer with servo:  DCC Point Changer with Servo
$20.50 plus $6.50 post



You can get a DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo for $25.00 and this is called a Capacitor Discharge Unit (using DCC input).

// ????le with a relay that you can toggle from the "5 button DCC controller" shown above. This will allow you to operate station lighting or motorised animation devices.

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The next "add-on" is a  DCC module with 5 buttons to operate 1,2,3,4 or 5 DCC points. You will need to buy the $25.00 DCC Point Controller called a Capacitor Discharge Unit or the  DCC Point for $35.00 using a servo to operate the point.

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You can also get a module that identifies the position of the point (if you already have a DCC Controller) for $10.50 USD plus delivery. The DCC controllers on the market do not show the position of the point and this module is very handy for showing the position of each point.
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Here are the modules in more detail:

Here is the Dual DCC controller:

This Dual DCC controller will control 2 locos at the same time and is an ideal way to create a DCC set-up. And the cost is just $43.00 AUD plus $6.50 posted worldwide.
It can also be used with 2 DCC locos that you have converted from DC to DCC via two Motor Decoders shown below.
The only additional item you require is a 12v DC supply from a SLA battery or a 15.9v  DC supply from 4 Li-Ion cells (18650) or a 15v AC supply from a train transformer. transformer.

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DCC Decoder for Motor

DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo
Talking Electronics has produced a module that detects the DCC signal on the track and changes a point.
But to explain this we have to start at the beginning. To operate the DCC Point Changer you need a DCC Controller such as NCE POWER CAB. There are a number of suitable types, BUT NOT A HORNBY CONTROLLERER. 
The Power Cab has a keyboard to select the address of a loco. But the same range of numbers can be used to access other items such as the operation of a point.
We have used address "40" to operate our DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo, shown below. 
You can have 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 DCC POINT CHANGERS on this address and to operate each point, the keys 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 are used in TOGGLE MODE.  By pressing key 1, the first POINT CHANGER will activate the point. But you will not know the position of the point, if you cannot see it move.
So we have a DCC Point Identification module that picks up the signal from the track and shows the result on a display. 

You need 4 things:
1.  DCC POINT CONTROLLER - such as NCE Power CAB

2. DCC POINT CHANGER with a servo

3. DCC POINT IDENTIFICATION Module

4. Track pick-off for each DCC POINT CHANGER
 

DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo
Buy DCC Point Changer with servo:  DCC Point Changer with Servo
$20.50 plus $6.50 post

If you have 5 DCC points, you will need to order:
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key1
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key2
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key3
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key4
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key5
If you have more DCC points, you will need to order:
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key1
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key2
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key3
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key4
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key5

This means you use address 40 or 41  and then press button 1 to change the point.
Then press button 1 again to change the point back to the original position.

You will also need a connection to the track to pick-off the signal< to operate the DCC Point Changer and also power the servo. 
Track Pick-Off MkI has two track joiners soldered to the board and this is fitted between two sections of your layout.
The images below shows and how it it fitted to the track. . the track. .

Comes with 1.5metres of screened lead

Track Pick-Off MkII.  It has two springy clips that touch the inner parts of the rails and make electrical contact. .
The board comes with the two clips soldered in place and you need to remove the plastic from between two sleepers to allow the board to fit. Twist the board into position and give the spring clip a twist with a pair of pliers so it pushes against the rail.

Track pick-off $2.50 each  Track pick-off Let me know who many and which type.

DCC POINT IDENTIFICATION Module
Buy:  DCC Point Indicator
$10.50 usd plus $6.50 usd post

Keeping track of the position of each point is a challenge. .
The wrong position can cause a derailment.
This project lets you keep track of the position of each point with a set of LEDs and a diagram on the module showing the track.
The module listens to the DCC signals and responds to the addresses of up to 5 points.
Simply connect the module to the track using the TRACK PICK-OFF BOARD and track joiners.

The DCC POINT IDENTIFICATION Module

YOU NEED 3 THINGS
1. You need a controller such as NCE Power CAB that uses NMRA DCC digital signals.
2. You need the DCC POINT INDICATOR module (the module shown above)
3. You need a DCC Point controller. This can be purchased from Talking Electronics and is connected to the track to pick up track voltage and DCC signals.
The DCC Point controller can be designed to operate a solenoid point (commonly called a Point Motor and is actually a solenoid that needs a CDU (Capacitor Discharge Unit) to operate it remotely.
Or the DCC Point controller can be designed to operate a servo with slow activation to change the position of the point.
There are two different types:
DCC Point controller - for solenoid 
or DCC Point controller - for servo

HOW IT WORKS
1. The DCC Point Indicator module is connected to the track using the TRACK PICK-OFF BOARD and track joiners.
2. The DCC Point controller module is connected to the track using the TRACK PICK-OFF BOARD and track joiners and the output is connected via 3 wires to the solenoid or the servo is connected to the arm on the point via a linkage.
You can have 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 modules that control the points and they can be any mixture of
DCC Point controller - for solenoid  or DCC Point controller - for servo

3. On your< NCE Power CAB (called a controller) select address 40.
4.  Now press button 1 and the DCC Point controller connected to button 1 (via the program in the chip on the DCC Point controller module), will activate the point to the branch line.  Press button 1 again and the module will activate the point to the main line.
5. At the same time, the LEDs on the DCC Point Indicator module will show green or blue to correspond to branch line or main line.

SIGNAL PICK-UP
The DCC signal are picked up from the track via a pick-up connector.
There are two types:

Track Pick-Off MkI has two track joiners soldered to the board and this is fitted between two sections of your layout.
The images above shows and how it it fitted to the track:

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DCC POINT CHANGER for a SOLENOID POINT
Buy DCC Point Changer with CDU to change a Peco or other solenoid point:  DCC Point Changer with CDU
$25.00 USD plus $8.50 usd post

This module operates the solenoid on a set of points (also called SEEP MOTORS) via 3 wires (connected to the 3-terminal block at the bottom of the module). .
The other two wires connecting to the module are connected to the DCC track via the clips provided or with TRACK CONNECTORS (cost:$2.50 usd )

The module takes a small amount of current from the track to charges the 4700u electrolytic to 25v. .
The white LED on the board shows when the electro is fully charged.
To operate the module, select address 40 and press "1" on the keypad. The point will change position.
Allow about 8 seconds for the electro to charge and button "1" can be pressed again to change the point back to the original position.
The module also has two over-ride buttons that change the point if you are near the point and want to change its position.
The module costs $25.00 usd plus postage worldwide.
TRACK CONNECTORS are also available for $2.50 extra as shown in the diagram above.
If you buy 2 modules, they will be accessed at address 40 and key "1" and key "2"
Up to 5 modules can be accessed at address 40.

Contact: Talking Electronics.com for more information on all these modules.

 

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DCC POINT CHANGER for 5 POINTS
Buy a 5 Point DCC Point Changer $35.00 usd plus $11.50 usd post

Your controller connects to the module
and the module connects to the track.
Your controller drives the loco.
Push button "A" to change the first point.
The LEDs on the module show you the position of the point.
You don't have to remember any addresses.
You need 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 DCC Point Controllers with Hut
to complete the installation.

This module fits between your controller and the track.
You know how awkward it is to look up an address for each point to change its position.
This module makes it much simpler and it shows the position of the point so you can decide if it has to be changed.
The output of the module sends a signal through the track to a module at each turn-out.
The activating mechanism at each point can be a servo or solenoid such a PECO solenoid (2 coil solenoid) or a KATO solenoid that is double-acting. The signal is the same and you don't have to perform and programming operations.
Everything comes pre-programmed and you only have to tell us what module you want for point A, point B, point C, point D and point E.
This module "over-rides" or "takes-over" the signals from your controller via the on-board relay to send the required identifications signals.  
 

This projects allows you to use any old IR remote control from a TV or VCR to control your points.
You can control 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 points or more.

The 3.7v back-up cell comes in a Hut too

The sides of the Hut and the battery box comes as a kit
and you need to glue or solder them together to create
the hut shown in the picture above.

You can walk around your layout while someone is driving your train and control the destination of the train.
The modules are easy to install as no wiring is needed from your console. The modules are self-contained with a rechargeable battery that gets charged from the rails. It comes with a "track pick-off" board that is fitted between the rails to take a very small amount of current to charge the battery and operate the electronics.
You can also get a hut to cover the electronics and servo.
You can use any IR remote control as the module can be programmed to accept any 2 keys on any remote and you can use the number keys, letter keys or coloured keys, so long as you remember what keys you have programmed!
You need 2 keys for each point as one key will operate the slow-moving servo to the main track and the other key will send the train to the siding.
This is better than using a single key to toggle the servo as you may not be able to see the position of the point.
The module comes with a fully charged battery and this will provide enough energy for 10 activations of the point.
However it is expected you will drive trains around the layout and a small amount of current will be directed to the module to keep the battery fully charged.

 

 18/8/2022