The module (containing the electronics) costs $25.00 USD  (built and tested).

You can also get special slow-motion servos with 70 degree activation for $2.50 each and brackets for under your layout for $2.50 each. We also  have 2 metre extension leads for $2.00 extra.

SETTING-UP INSTRUCTIONS 
Connect the battery-snap (provided on the module) to 12v battery made up of say 8 AA cells.  This is just an initial test to make sure everything works and nothing gets too hot.
If the voltage is not high enough (from flat batteries), the LEDs will just flash.
Later you can connect the module to a 12v power supply.
The LEDs will illuminate and now you need to move each point motor in both directions so the LEDs on the board correspond to the position of the point.
Push the first switch for at least 0.5 seconds to allow the program to recognise the button.
Push it again. The point motor will reverse and the LED on the board will indicate the position of the point. Repeat with all the buttons.
You can’t just press the button quickly. You need to push it for 0.5 seconds to allow the program to detect the button.
Now you can extend each point motor with the extension leads provided.
You can get brackets to hold the point motor under the layout as shown in the image above.
Each time you turn on the module, you need to “synchronise” the point with the LEDs on the PC board by pressing each button to move the point in both directions. Wait for the servo to travel and STOP, before pressing the button again.

5 Point Controller for Servos: $25.00 USD
5 Slow-motion Servos  $12.50 USD
5  2metre extension leads   $10.00 USD
5 Brackets   $12.50 USD
Shipping:   $8.50 USD for all items

Buy  5 Point Controller for Servos $25.00usd plus $6.50usd post

There are many ways to position the servo to allow the lever to control the point.
Placing the servo on its side will give better alignment, as shown below:

The image on the left is just an example to show the connection of the servo to the point. The servo can lay down to take up less room.

The servo rotates less than 70° and the gold wire is called the "linkage."
Any electro-mechanical device (motor, solenoid, servo) that operates a point is called a SWITCH MACHINE.
This project will only operate a normal (unconverted) SERVO as the circuit sends PWM signals to the servo to set its angle of rotation.
Talking Electronics has other projects that operate a motor and gearbox or a solenoid, but this project is specially designed to turn a manual point into an automatic point at the lowest cost.
The servo can be placed under your layout or in a plastic model such as a Platelayers Hut.

A platelayers hut can be used to hide the servo

There are many ways to connect the servo to the "switching lever" and here's one way that adjusts the movement of the arm on the servo to the travel needed by the switching lever.
It consists of a machine pin fitted to your layout and another machine pin fitted into it. This forms a  pivot and you can adjust the travel by providing the correct ratio for the gold wire before the pivot and after the pivot.
This arrangement also puts a small amount of tension on the rails, allowing the loco to pass if the point is not set correctly.  

The following images clearly show how the 3.7g SERVO is connected to the point via a LINKAGE:

The Machine pin in the centre of the linkage acts as a pivot and the "crank" in the lever is simply to align the activating arm to the slider on the track.
The gold wire is soldered to the pin so it does not change alignment.

THE SUPPLY
The supply for this project is 9v to 16v DC - but it is best to deliver a maximum of 12v. A voltage higher than 12v will make the 470R and BC338 slightly hotter.
You can deliver 12v AC as the diode and 100u will convert this to a DC voltage and the BC338 will smooth the output with the aid of the 6v2 zener diode.
Nothing in the circuit is susceptible to a small amount of ripple, so AC input is not a problem.
 
CONSTRUCTION
Assembly of the PC board is straightforward.
Fit the resistors first and then the electros, transistors, LEDs and diodes. The last parts to fit are the terminal blocks and switches.
You will need wiring to a 12v supply and you will need to connect the mini reed switches to the screened audio cable and add metal ends to the wires so they can be fitted to the screw terminals.
All these parts are included in the kit as well as 2 very strong super magnets. These are to be fitted under two locos.

Everything fits neatly on the board

All the components are clearly identified.
 

The two reed switches are carefully soldered to the
leads (very fine screened audio lead).
2 very strong rare-earth magnets
operate the reed switches at 2-3cm
(reed switches separately with 2 magnets cost $4.00)

SETTING-UP THE MAGNETS
The kit comes with 2 x 10mm super magnets about 1mm thick and to get the best magnetism from these magnets, place them on the bench about 5mm apart with one magnet having the North pole up and the other South pole up.
Don't worry yet.   When the opposite poles are up,  the reed switch will activate when it is lowered over the magnets at 10mm distance. If no reaction, flip one magnet over. The response will be dramatic. Now glue the magnets to the underside of a loco with N-pole up and the other S-pole up.
One up and one down creates a circular magnetic path through the "leaves" of the  reed switch and makes one leaf "N" at the tip and the other "S" at the tip and the two leaves click together.

FITTING the REED SWITCHES
Fit the two reed switches near the point but give the servo time to change the point before the loco gets to the point.
Connect the 12v supply and one of the LEDs will illuminate. It indicates the position of the point.
Press the other button and the point will change.  Drive the train through the point (from left to right) and when you return from the siding, the point will be ready for the train.

CHAPTER FOUR THROTTLES

Talking Electronics has produced a number of different TRAIN THROTTLES.
These need either AC or DC input and produce 0v to 12v DC output.
If you have an AC supply such as: 10v AC to 12v AC, the Throttle Circuit below will produce an output of 0v to 12v DC - that is what it is designed to do.
If you have a 12v DC supply, the voltage-drops across the input power diodes and the control circuitry, will reduce the output to about 10v DC. 
This means you need an input voltage of 14v DC, to get 12v out, and this will require 2 adaptors in series or a set of 4 Li-ion cells.
The POWER SUPPLY project described above uses 4 Li-ion cells to provide a voltage of about 14.2v DC to 14.8v DC and is adjustable. It can be used as a TRAIN THROTTLE.

Most locos take about 300mA to 500mA and need a voltage of about 12v for full speed.
A 1Amp power supply will just be capable of operating two loco's.  

There are two types of TRAIN THROTTLE:
TypeA produces an output 0v to 12v DC and you need a reversing switch to reverse the train.
TypeB has a control with 0v in centre-position and "left" reverses the train at a gradual increase and "right" drives the train forward at an increasing velocity. No change-over switch needed.
This type of Train Throttle can be PWM and provides pulses of energy. It "kicks" the motor in bursts of about 600Hz and allows it to start the train very slowly. The "kicks" are very rapid and sometimes you can hear the "buzz" from the motor.
These circuits require an input voltage of 14v DC, so the full 12v DC can be delivered to the motor (as up to 2v DC is lost in the circuitry).

Here is a circuit and photo for typeA and the wiring for the reversing switch:

 Two Amp Power Supply circuit diagram. It is also called 2-amp THROTTLE


The completed project, showing the placement of the parts
The input voltage can be AC or DC. 
The DC voltage needs to be at least 16v6 to get 12v DC out. If you supply 17v to 20v DC, nothing will be damaged.  Just the 470R resistor will get slightly hotter when the input voltage is above 18v.

The 2-Amp POWER SUPPLY project is HERE
Kits come with 0-2 Amp meter to show the current. The ammeter is not a square meter as shown above but a side-meter as shown in the POWER SUPPLY project.  But it is FREE, so don't complain. 
$12.50 USD plus $6.50 USD postage.
Click  Here to order.

Connecting a reversing switch

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TRAIN THROTTLE No2.  (kit:   $18.00 with leads) Click  Here to order.
See the project: HERE
This circuit connects an AC transformer (or a DC supply) to a track to provide a voltage from 0v to max voltage (depending on the voltage of the transformer). 
The transformer can be AC or DC and any voltage from 12v to 18v.
The throttle handle connects to the 1k pot.
The diode on the output protects the transistors from reverse polarity (if  another controller is also connected to the rails).
The circuit is limited to about 1amp due to the 1N4004 diodes.

Here are two controllers that may be available from Model Railway suppliers and hobby shops. They are expensive but look really nice.
In this article we are showing you everything because some hobbyists want to build it themselves and others want to buy a ready-made item.

Transformer with 12v AC output and 18v AC

An impressive throttle can be built by using the following circuit and the THROTTLE PC Board in the kit (the lever handle shown above is not available).

 
                        Train Throttle Circuit 

The 8 power diodes are now replaced by 4 x 1N5404

AC plug packs are very difficult to buy, but 12v 1-amp DC or 2-amp DC can be
purchased at very low cost.
You can increase the output by 1.5v if you connect the positive and negative leads of the DC plug pack to the following points on the PC:

THROTTLE WITH PWM   Kit: $28.50 plus $6.50 postage. 
Click HERE to buy a kit.
Built and Tested: $35.00 plus $6.50 postage. Click HERE to buy a module. 
This is our latest design with forward and reverse via the yellow CONTROL POT. This project does not need a reversing switch as the pot provides zero speed when at 12 O'clock and reverse when turned to the left and forward when turned to the right. The output is Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) to give the loco smooth starting.
By this we mean the motor gets pulses from the throttle that allow it to start very slowly.
The module is capable of delivering 3 amps (due to the thickness of the tracks) and the power diodes are 5 amp. Additional heatsink fins will be needed for currents above 2 amp. But we suggest a 1-amp supply for most loco's.
The 4 FETs on the output bridge are capable of handing more than 10 amp and the trackwork on the board can be modified to handle 5 amps by soldering tinned copper wire along the tracks identified with additional solder pads.  This means the controller can be used for garden layouts where the loco will draw 5 amps. If you want to control more than 5 amps, you will need to connect the supply directly to the MOSFETs in the bridge and by-pass the 5 amp diodes.
The switch at the right is the on-off switch. The two LEDs on the board indicate forward and reverse, in case you cannot see the loco on a large layout.

All the digital signals are controlled (and generated) by the microcontroller and the pot determines the timing of the waveform and the activation of the H-bridge.
The two lower MOSFETs turn ON or OFF to take one or other of the output leads to 0v.  At the same time the top, opposite, MOSFET is switched ON and OFF at a fairly low frequency (about 600Hz) to provide pulses to the motor.
The ON-time is increased, compared to the OFF-time to increase the speed of the loco.
The THROTTLE WITH PWM module comes with connectors that are fitted in place of rail joiners to deliver the voltage from the throttle to the track.

NEW VERSION
The latest version was requested by a customer. He wanted the control facing the front:

The cost is the same for either module but you must specify which version you want. The switch and knob are not attached when posted as the module must be less than 2cm high for posting in the box we use.
Both modules come with the TRACK PICK-OFF (shown below) to deliver the output of the module to your layout.
 

Connect a plug pack and the throttle project is ready. 

UPGRADE YOUR CONTROLLER
The following images of controller are called DC CONTROLLERS. They increase and decrease the DC voltage and most have a reversing switch. There is nothing wrong with these controllers, but if you want to start the train very slowly, and have a controller-knob that has both forward and reverse, THROTTLE WITH PWM is the upgrade.
If you have one of the controllers shown below or a similar type that has a 0-100 scale AND a reversing switch, you can connect its output to the input of THROTTLE WITH PWM and get the new features.

HERE'S WHAT TO DO
Connect your throttle to the mains and turn the knob or lever to maximum.
Measure the voltage coming out of the throttle and make sure you identify the positive lead.
Now turn it off and connect the positive lead to the "+" DC screw terminal on THROTTLE WITH PWM module.
Now connect the other lead to the "-" DC terminal on THROTTLE WITH PWM module.
Put your throttle under your layout, making sure you do not touch the handle or the reversing switch.
Now connect your track to the two screw terminals marked "to track" on the THROTTLE WITH PWM module.
The THROTTLE WITH PWM module will use your throttle as a power supply and deliver PWM to your layout via the forward/reverse knob on THROTTLE WITH PWM.

The above 7 controllers are suitable for adding to THROTTLE WITH PWM module

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The Transformer
You can find suitable transformers in the oddest of places. Here is a 12v,  4-amp transformer from a 50 watt down-light. The light was replaced with a 10 watt LED light and it produced 3 times more light !!
The 50 watt transformer makes an ideal supply for a throttle and at 4 amps, it has enough current for other locos too.
The 12v2 AC produces 18v DC after rectification minus 2v to 3v drop across the diodes in the bridge.
The circuitry in the throttle drops another 2v and the output was measured as 13.5v DC.
All our down-lights were replaced with 5watt or 10 watt LED lights and the rooms are much brighter, with a whiter light and the wattage is less than 25% than before.  Now we have 6 transformers.
Transformers like this can be found in all sorts of equipment and they are ideal for the throttles we have described. You just have to look for them.

All the functions are in the PIC12F629 microcontroller

The module comes with 2 Test Switches and extension lead for servo, plus the servo and 0.6mm and 0.7mm push rods. You just need a 8v to 12v supply.  .

All the complex electronics in the project above can be reduced by using our module and a servo.
 

DCC stands for Digital Command Control and basically means you can control more than one train on the same track.
It is expensive to add this feature to your layout as you need a COMMAND CONTROLLER and a loco that has a DIGITAL DECODER fitted inside the loco. A command controller is about $200 and a loco with a Digital Decoder fitted is about $200 and you need two locos to take advantage of this system.
I have used a COMMAND CONTROLLER "NCE POWER CAB" and is is very slow and messy as it is designed for a single person to control two trains.
But what if you have two "drivers?"   . . . . two hobbyists who want to drive the two trains at the same time?
All the controllers on the market do not allow this feature.
But Talking Electronics has produced a very simple Dual DCC Controller for two DCC Decoders for locos that do not have a decoder.

Here is the Dual DCC controller:

Buy Dual DCC Controller Fully Built $43.00 plus $6.50 postage

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DCC Decoder for Motor

This is a 1amp decoder NOT 500mA as per most of the small decoders advertised.
The output has 3amp FETs so the output stays as "cold as a frog."
Lots of these decoders have been sold and you can create a new DCC section using the controller and decoders because it is very easy to set-up and can be used by your friends, children or as test set-up as no programming is required and both controller can be used at the same time. It is much easier to use than all the hand-held controllers on the market and puts new life into two of your DC locos. (Don't forget: they have to be converted to DCC.)

The Decoder can be put into a Coal Tender

You can turn a DC Loco into a DCC loco with this universal Motor Decoder for $18.00 plus $4.50 postage worldwide.
All you have to do is cut the two wires to the motor and insert the module.
The image above shows 2 screened leads (equal to 4 wires) from the loco. These 4 go to the input and output of the module.
The module is fitted in the tender if there is insufficient room inside the loco.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING THE MOTOR DECODER:
When you receive your Motor Decoder, it will have an address such as 3, 5, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36. You can request any address when buying the module.
The Decoder comes with leads and alligator clips so you can test everything before installation. The leads near the 4 power diodes clip onto the two rails of your DCC layout.

Place a NEW 1 metre length of track next to your layout.
Place the DC loco on the new track.
Connect the other two leads to this new track.
Now set your controller to address show on the chip and use the throttle knob to drive the loco forward and reverse.
Make sure you are happy with the performance.
Now open the loco and cut the two wires to the motor.
Make sure no wires are connected to the chassis.
Now connect the two wires next to the 4 power diodes on the Motor Decoder to the DCC track. Connect the other 2 wires and alligator clips to the motor.
Place the "bogey" (motor and wheels) on the DCC track and carefully make the loco move back and forth very slightly.
You have now proven the Motor Decoder will work correctly when fitted inside the loco or in a coal tender or any suitable carriage behind the loco.
The cost of a DCC layout will be about $43 + $18 + $18 + power supply + postage.                

Talking Electronics has produced a module that detects the DCC signal on the track and changes a point.
But to explain this we have to start at the beginning.
To operate the DCC Point Changer you need a DCC Controller such as NCE POWER CAB. There are a number of suitable types, BUT NOT A HORNBY CONTROLLER. 
The Power Cab has a keyboard to select an address and these address are generally the address of a loco. But the same range of addresses can be used to access other items such as the operation of a point.
We have used address "40" to operate our DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo, shown below. 
You can have 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 DCC POINT CHANGERS on this address and to operate each point, the keys 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 are used in TOGGLE MODE.  By pressing key, the first POINT CHANGER will activate the point. But you will not know the position of the point, if you cannot see it move.
So we have a DCC Point Identification module that picks up the signal from the track and shows the result on a display. 

You need 4 things:

1.  DCC POINT CONTROLLER - such as NCE Power CAB

2. DCC POINT CHANGER with a servo

3. DCC POINT IDENTIFICATION Module

4. Track pick-off for each DCC POINT CHANGER
 

TO SERVO






DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo
Buy DCC Point Changer with servo:  DCC Point Changer with Servo
$20.50 plus $6.50 post

If you have 5 DCC points, you will need to order:
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key1
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key2
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key3
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key4
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 40  - toggle key5
If you have more DCC points, you will need to order:
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key1
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key2
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key3
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key4
DCC POINT CHANGER using a servo with address 41  - toggle key5

You will also need a connection to the track to pick-off the signal to operate the DCC Point Changer and also power the servo. 
Track Pick-Off MkI has two track joiners soldered to the board and this is fitted between two sections of your layout.
The images below shows and how it it fitted to the track.

Track Pick-Off MkII.  It has two springy clips that touch the inner parts of the rails and make electrical contact.
The board comes with the two clips soldered in place and you need to remove the plastic from between two sleepers to allow the board to fit. Twist the board into position and give the spring clip a twist with a pair of pliers so it pushes against the rail.

Track pick-off $1.50 each  Track pick-off Let me know who many and which type.

DCC POINT IDENTIFICATION Module
Buy:  DCC Point Indicator
$10.50 plus $6.50 post

Train Detectors are mainly used to watch the passage of a train around your layout via a series of LEDs on your console.
This is very handy when parts of your layout are not visible from where you are standing and this can be an "L-shaped" layout around a corner - lucky for those who have such a large layout. Some enthusiasts have even broken through the wall of one room to continue the layout in the next room.  These are the sort of layouts where a TRAIN DETECTOR is very important.
We have designed more than 7 different modules to cover your requirements and they start with a simple circuit on a small printed circuit board. 
There are 5 different sensors, 5 different outputs, a delay option, a relay version and two isolated options for the larger modules.

The detectors detect the presence of the loco. They are one of the following:
1. Reed Switches, or
2. IR Detection on one side of the track, or
3. IR Detection across the track  or
4. IR Detection under the track.
We also have coded IR detection in which the transmitted signal is 38kHz and this makes the sensor able to operate in any light conditions and any sort of interference.
And the signal can be detected over a ling range, such as 2 or 3 tracks.

The output can be:
1. Just illuminating a LED
2. Up to 50mA to supply current for another module
3. Up to 100mA
4. Up to 1 amp  or
5. Three amps or more

The output can have a delay features where it is ON for 2 seconds to 2 minutes.
The output can isolated or non-isolated.

This gives more than 10 different options and you have to read this article to work out which module will be the most suitable for your application.

Reed switches are the cheapest but you have to put a magnet under each loco.
IR modules detect a beam of light and by using an Infra-red beam, the natural lighting on your layout will not effect the operation of the sensor.  
If the Infra-red transmitter and receiver are together, the beam is bounced off the loco and this is called REFLECTIVE DETECTION.
If the beam is across the track, the beam is cut by the loco. This is called BROKEN BEAM DETECTION. The beam across the track will also work for two tracks.
If the Infra-red transmitter and receiver are between the rails,  it is called REFLECTIVE DETECTION.
All our detectors are very sensitive but some are more sensitive than others and you have to test a module and ask for an exchange if you want the other form of detection. 
The IR detectors also have two different levels of sensitivity as one form of transmission is a constant beam while the other is coded (pulsed) at 38kHz and it does not pick up incident interference (such as light-levels).  

DECIDING ON THE MODULE FOR YOUR APPLICATION  
Here's how to decide on the module you need:
Firstly you have to work out what you want to turn ON when the train approaches. Is it LEDs or globes or a motor?
Then you have to know what current your device takes. Normally this is of no concern, but some of the Train Detector Modules have a transistor switch and the capability of the switch may be limited to 50mA, 100mA or 200mA. One module will handle 3 Amps or more.

Then you have to decide if you want REED SWITCHES or Infra-red sensors.

The simplest is a set of two reed switches. This will detect the train in both directions. They are placed either side of the crossing and detect the on-coming loco.
If you want to pay a little more, you can have 2 IR detectors.
 
Then you have to decide if you want a DELAY feature.
Some modules have an on-time (also called a DELAY) from 1 second to 30 seconds.
You may want to activate a set of lights at a station as the train passes or a windmill or a set of crossing lights and some of our modules provide an activation for a period of time. You select the DELAY TIME by adjusting the mini trim pot on the module.

Now that you know all the features of the modules, you can select the right one to suit your application.

There is one final option.  Two modules have an ISOLATION feature where the output (the output is a SWITCH) is totally isolated from the electronics of the module and this means you can turn on a device that has its own power supply.

The output of some Train Detector modules is a SWITCH - just like the wires from a reed switch, or the connections on the output of a relay.
Other Train Detector "supply" the current (and voltage) to the module being activated. And this "supply" comes from the power rail of the Train Detector module.
If you do not know what you want, you need to email us with your details so you get the correct module.
THIS IS HOW THE TRAIN DETECTOR WORKS:
When the Train Detector module detects a loco, the resistance between the two output connections is very low. (The OUTPUT of the Train Detector module). We say "low" because the switching device may be a transistor (in the circuit of the Train Detector). It will be zero ohms when the switching device is a relay.
When the "switch" in the Train Detector module is a relay, you can connect the two wires (to the device you are activating) around either way.  But in our case the relay is a CMOS relay and the connections must be around the correct way.
When the "switch" in the Train Detector module is a transistor, you must connect the two wires (to the module you are activating) around the way we will explain in an accompanying diagram. This is because the transistor only becomes a "switch" in one direction.
If the module you want to control is powered by a different power supply to the supply for the Train Detector, you will need to buy the OPTO or RELAY VERSION. This version is classified as ISOLATED.
Finally, you need to know if you want the Train Detector to be able to switch a very small current - such as 50mA or a higher current -  such as 500mA or 1 amp.
If you buy the relay module, it will switch everything, but the other modules are cheaper.
Finally, you can buy a module that remains active (switched) for 1 sec to 30 seconds. This is called DELAY TIME or ON-TIME.

IR DETECTOR
Since you cannot see the Infra-red beam of the Train Detectors, we have designed a detector that you move around in front of the beam and work out where it is the brightest. This detector also works for 38kHz beams. It is essential for detecting problems. Ask us about the kit.

And we also have a LED TESTER that will illuminate and test LEDs and also test leads for continuity.    Ask us about the kit.

Now we come the modules:

THE FIRST TYPE
This is our simplest and cheapest TRAIN DETECTOR. It is called TRAIN DETECTOR with reed switch. It is fully built and tested and costs $8.00 plus $6.50 postage.

You will get the module on a Printed Circuit Board. The photo shows the prototype with one reed switch and 2 super magnets 12mm diam x 1mm thick.
The "105" mini trim pot is the DELAY - from a few seconds to about 120 seconds.

It comes with a reed switch on 1500mm lead and two very strong super magnets that fit under two of your locos.
Here is the circuit:

The output goes HIGH when the loco is detected and stays HIGH for 2 seconds to 2 minutes, depending on the setting of the 1M mini trim pot. The output will deliver up to about 300mA.
Here is the Train Detector module connected to Crossing Lights Module:

You can see the Train Detector Module "powers" the module you want to operate. It supplies the voltage and current to the Module you are activating. The voltage will be about 2-3v less than the voltage you deliver to the "+" and "-" terminals and the current will be a maximum of 300mA due to the capability of the 555 IC.

Here is the TRAIN DETECTOR connected to a module from eBay (from evemodel - China)
The module costs $35.00 for 2 modules and they come with the Crossing Lights.

The "evermodule" is just a flip flop without any delay or train detection. You need the TRAIN DETECTOR module to get the full-operations features, you want.

This design also comes with a TOGGLE feature where the first reed switch turns the module ON and the second reed switch turns the module OFF. This is ideal for activating STATION LIGHTS or any other attraction that needs to be activated when the train passes.
When the train comes in the other direction the second reed switch turns the module ON and the first reed switch turns the module OFF.

THE SECOND TYPE
This is another simple TRAIN DETECTOR. It is available as a set of 6 Train Detectors on two separate Printed Circuit board.
Here is an image of our test-board with 5 different photo transistors, where we compare the sensitivity of each photo-transistor. We only supply the most sensitive photo-transistors in the kit.
These are not Infra-red transistors but "ordinary light"  transistors that pick up the light in the room.

The 10k resistor is removed to increase sensitivity

 The LED illuminates when the photo-transistor does not see light and it goes out when it is brought up to a light-source. This means the loco will turn on the LED when it passes over the sensor.

The PC board above shows 5 circuits. The new kit contain 6 modules (circuits) and comes with 2 PC boards containing 3 circuits on each board and costs $21.00 for the 2 boards and all the components.
It is called 6 TRAIN DETECTORS

Normally you mount the photo-transistor between the sleepers and the ambient light in the room will turn the LED off. When the train passes over the photo-transistor, the LED illuminates.
The circuit will not deliver much more than 12mA and maybe a little more if the 330R resistor is reduced to 220R.
It is mainly designed to illuminate the LED on the PC board.

THE THIRD TYPE
This module contains 6 separate circuits on the printed circuit board and uses a HEX Schmitt Trigger IC. It also has a delay feature with a timing that is fixed by the value of the 22u electrolytic and 100k resistor.
The complete kit costs $26.00    It is called HEX TRAIN DETECTOR
Each output is capable of delivering 10mA and the circuit is mainly designed to operate the 6 LEDs on the board.

You can also get this module with 12 inputs and 12 outputs.   The 12 LEDs are in a row and you can see them illuminate in-turn as your train executes the circuit. 
It is called 12-BLOCK TRAIN DETECTOR. $30.00usd Plus $6.50usd shipping

This 12 Block Train Detector is pre-wired with detectors on 1 metre, 2 metre and 3 metre leads.
There are 12 indicator LEDs on the module. LEDs 1,2 have 3 metre leads. LEDs 3,4 have 2 metre leads LEDs 5,6,7,8 have 1 metre leads. LEDs 9,10 have 2 metre leads. LEDs 11,12 have 3 metre leads. This will allow a layout with a length of 6 metres to be covered.

Simply fit the detectors between the sleepers or through a 5.2mm hole from under your layout. The sensors are photo-resistors that reduce resistance when light is detected.
Each sensor is adjustable via the SENSITIVITY CONTROL - the 10k mini trim pot on the module.
Adjust the control until the corresponding LED turns OFF and then move your hand over the sensor and the LED will illuminate.
Place all the sensors in sequence and you will be able to watch your train move around the layout via the LEDs.
The module is completely wired and tested for $30.00usd plus $6.50usd shipping.

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THE FOURTH TYPE - Reflective Detection
This module has two Infrared sensors that are placed between the sleepers and are fitted into two 3mm diameter holes in the base of your layout, so almost nothing is visible.
It is called TRAIN DETECTOR TD-01 under track detection
It is fully assembled and comes with two IR detectors on 1metre and/or 2 metre leads for $23.00 plus $6.50 postage.
There are 3 different detectors that can be fitted to this module:
- 2 separate LEDs to be fitted through 3mm holes
- IR module to be placed on the track between the rails
- IR module to be placed on one side of the track  
All types cost the same ($23.00) but you need to specify which type you want.
Here is the circuit:

You will notice the transmitting LEDs are in series so you need to connect BOTH sets of sensors for the circuit to work.

 
The circuit uses REFLECTIVE IR detection and this means the receiver does not detect infrared when "sitting around" (it escapes into the air).  When the train passes over the LEDs shown above, the receiving LED detects the reflected infrared beam and the circuit turns ON for a period of time as determined by the 1Meg mini trim pot.
The output goes HIGH and is capable of delivering about 300mA to 500mA.  The output voltage will be about 2v-3v lower than the supply voltage due to the voltage drop of the 555 IC.

This module also supports a reflective module containing two LEDs that can be placed between the rails:


And the module supports a reflective module containing two LEDs that can be placed beside the track:

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THE FIFTH TYPE - Broken Beam version
This module uses the same type of circuit as above but with different detectors.
It is called TRAIN DETECTOR TD-01 across track detection
It is fully assembled and comes with two IR detectors on 1metre and 2 metre leads for $23.00 plus $6.50 postage.
Here is the circuit:

The detection is called BROKEN BEAM and the train interrupts the IR beam. The delay can be adjusted from 2 secs to 2 minutes via the 1Meg mini trim pot.


THE SIXTH TYPE - Isolated Output - Reflective Type
The output of the following two modules is completely isolated from the electronics on the board.
This allows you to operate a project that has its own power supply and may be connected to a different transformer.
When you have this type of arrangement, there can be leakage in each power supply that puts a high voltage between the output leads and what is called "earth." The leakage current will be very small but the voltage can be sufficient to damage transistors and IC's.
This happened 4 times with a customer until I asked for the module to be put on batteries and then use different power supplies. One of the supplies was "leaking."
An isolated output allows you to power a project that may need a very high supply voltage or it may have supply leads where one is 0v and the other is say 12v, but when you test the 0v lead with one probe of the multimeter and place the other probe on the 0v terminal of another power, you get a reading of say 17volts. This is the "leakage voltage" we are talking about. The current will be nearly zero but a voltage higher than 15v will damage integrated circuits and microcontrollers.
That's why we have an isolated module.

The first isolated module uses a 4N25 opto-isolator and can pass 50mA via its output terminals. This is idea for small loads such as LED lighting on a station or CROSSING LIGHTS. 
It is called TRAIN DETECTOR IR using 4N25
It is fully assembled and comes with two IR detectors on 1metre and 2 metre leads for $24.00 plus $6.50 postage.
Here is the circuit:

The second isolated module uses a relay and can pass 1Amp via its output terminals. This is idea for larger loads such as sound modules, motors, and motorised point controllers. 
It is called TRAIN DETECTOR IR using RELAY
It is fully assembled and comes with two IR detectors on 1metre and 2 metre leads for $25.00 plus $6.50 postage.
Here is the circuit:

Both isolated modules connect to the IR module shown in the following image and they can be placed BESIDE THE TRACK, BETWEEN THE RAILS or THROUGH 2 x 3mm HOLES in the base of your layout. Both sets of sensors mush be connected as the IR LEDs are in series.



All modules use REFLECTIVE IR detection and will detect up to about 15cm.
BROKEN BEAM detection will detect up to 20cm and can be used for one set of tracks or across two tracks.
You need to ask for the extension lead for the  BROKEN BEAM detector.
 

CARRIAGE LIGHTING  

The latest design has 2 inertia switches.

The LEDs illuminated

Add this module to a carriage for a very realistic lighting effect.
The super-bright LEDs can be mounted on the ceiling of the coach and the module placed on the floor.
When the train moves, the inertia switches (connected to the module) turn the lights ON.
 The module has a delay features of more than 30 seconds to keep the lights illuminated when the train is stopped at a station and automatically turns off when you have stopped driving the train. No switch is needed as the module automatically turns off.
The fine wires to the LEDs allow you to place the LEDs at the exact positions on the ceiling of the carriage and the module is placed on the floor of the carriage with the inertia switches facing forward to activate the module.
No wiring or drilling is needed. The circuit takes less than 10mA when activated and zero when not activated.
2032 and 2016 cells are included. An extra 2016 cell is included. The battery will last about 4 hours and you will get a total of about 8 hours with the cells provided.
Double sided tape is included to fit the LEDs and module while you use acetone glue (such as clear nail polish) to set the LEDs in place and allow the glue to dry.
Each inertia switch has a floating steel ball and when the ball is driven to the end of the switch (the switch is connected to the module), the circuit turns ON. The top of the switch must be slightly higher than the other end so the ball remains in the OFF position when the carriage is at rest.
This module can be used on HO, OO and N-gauge providing the N-gauge carriage has space for the battery holder.
Cost $15.00 usd plus $6.50 usd postage